布鲁日（Brugge）
- Maximus Nostramabus
- 2天前
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已更新：7分钟前
这里曾是世界上最大的商业运河城市，拥有风景如画的中世纪城市景观 - 佛兰德的比津社区 855；比利时和法国钟楼 943；布鲁日历史中心 996； 保护钟琴文化：保存、传播、交流和提高认识 01017；比利时的啤酒文化 01062
什么和为什么
布鲁日（荷兰语：Brugge）曾一度是世界商业中心，这得益于其港口和河流。这座城市通过多条运河与北海（英语：North Sea）相连，一直延伸到泽布吕赫（Zeebrugge），如今泽布吕赫已成为布鲁日的一部分。中世纪（英语：Middle Ages）时期，布鲁日经济鼎盛，许多令人印象深刻的古老建筑拔地而起，包括宏伟的钟楼和第二道城墙。或许对我们现代资本主义世界而言最为重要的是，世界上第一家证券交易所也诞生于此。
布鲁日的经济繁荣与其地理位置密切相关。一方面，作为港口城市，布鲁日促进了贸易，尤其是纺织业的发展。另一方面，布鲁日地处北方汉萨同盟（中古低地德语：Hanse）和南方贸易路线的交汇点，战略位置优越，因此得以发展。然而，自公元十六世纪以来，随着运河淤塞，交通日益不便，布鲁日开始走向衰落。衰落也导致这座城市的所有权几经易手，先后被西班牙（西班牙语：España）、奥地利（德语：Österreich）、法国（法语：France）和荷兰（Nederland）统治，直到公元1830年比利时（België）获得独立。矛盾的是，这种衰落反而保留了其中世纪的建筑风貌和美丽，由于缺乏财政预算进行大规模的城市改造，这座城市几乎保持了原貌。直到最近，工业重建才有所进展。因此，这座城市融合了中世纪的城市肌理、运河网络和商业遗产。
在城市的黄金时代，还出现了一系列贝居安会院（begijnhof），我们将在本博客的后续文章中详细介绍。
地名
布鲁日（Brugge）的名称可能源自古荷兰语“brugga”，意为“桥”，指的是环绕这座城市的运河桥梁，因为从技术上讲，这座城市是一个被河流环绕的内陆岛屿。另一种说法是，该名称源自古诺尔斯语“bryggja”，意为“港口”或“码头”，类似于我们博客中提到的挪威（挪威语：Norge）卑尔根（Bergen）的布吕根（Bryggen）。
看
集市广场（Grote Markt）
如同其他历史名城一样，布鲁日的中心始终是集市广场（Grote Markt），这里汇集了众多令人印象深刻的历史建筑，包括气势恢宏的钟楼。虽然这座广场的历史可以追溯到公元8世纪，但如今的集市广场却是在公元十九世纪末和二十世纪九十年代进行了重建和翻新。广场中央矗立着扬・布雷德尔（Jan Breydel）的雕像，他是公元十四世纪布鲁日晨祷（Brugse Metten）起义的领袖之一。钟楼则位于广场的南端。
广场内每天早上都有水果市场。
我妻子评价说这些农产品的质量非常好。
我们逐一参观了广场周围的重要建筑。
布鲁日历史博物馆（Historium Brugge）
虽然这座建筑外观呈新哥特式（英语：neo-Gothic）风格，但它实际上是在公元20世纪20年代才建造的。当时政府决定购买这块街角地块，并将其改建为邮局，而这里以前是港口的仓库。这座名为“水厅（Waterhalle）”的港口仓库曾是这座城市的标志性建筑，船只通过运河直接驶入市区，并在仓库内进行交易。由于淤塞，船只无法再抵达市区，水厅在公元十八世纪末被拆除。之后，原址重建，并建造了其他建筑。如同其他欧洲城市一样，这些建筑多次毁于火灾。
省议会宫（Provinciaal Hof）
省议会宫（Provinciaal Hof）是一座前省政府新哥特式建筑，现已废弃，主要用于礼仪用途。该建筑于公元十八世纪与法院大楼一同被烧毁，并于公元十九世纪末重建。
圣血圣殿（Heilige-Bloedbasiliek）
圣血圣殿（Heilige-Bloedbasiliek）是一座非常独特的教堂，它缺乏任何常见的教堂外貌特征。这座教堂因珍藏着一个盛放耶稣（希伯来语：יהושע）被钉十字架后沾血的圣物而闻名。据说，这件圣物是在公元十二世纪中期的第二次十字军东征期间被带到布鲁日的。每天下午二点，这件圣物都会公开展示，供信徒瞻仰。和往常一样，关于圣物真伪的争论不休，但圣物在一些宗教游行中被公开使用，具有重要的仪式意义。
这座教堂由两座小教堂组成：照片右侧较矮的小教堂被称为圣巴西勒小教堂（Benedenbasiliek Sint-Basilius），左侧较高的小教堂被称为上小教堂（Bovenbasiliek）。
圣母教堂（Onze Lieve Vrouwkerk）
这座哥特式（德语：Gotik）教堂高约一百一十五米，是该市最高的标志性建筑，教堂内收藏着米开朗基罗（本名 Michelangelo Buonarroti Simoni（意大利语））的众多重要艺术作品，例如《布鲁日圣母（Madonna met Kind）》。
布鲁日市政厅（Stadhuis Van Brugge）
这座建于公元十三世纪的市政厅是该地区最古老的市政厅之一，但和其他建筑一样，它也毁于火灾。布鲁日市政厅（Stadhuis）是比利时现存最早的晚期哥特式纪念性市政建筑，其华丽富丽的风格见证了布鲁日昔日的辉煌。其最古老部分的开创性石砌立面，启发了比利时其他许多市政厅的建造。
交易所（Huiz Ter Beurze）
布鲁日证券交易所（Huiz Ter Beurze）于公元1309年开业，是世界上第一家真正意义上的证券交易所。如今，这座建筑已不再使用。
顺便一提，在过去，许多房屋的门上都挂着一块简单的牌匾，用来标明房主的职业或身份。这在当时识字的人不多的情况下非常实用。布鲁日有很多这样的牌匾，探索一番也别有一番乐趣。下图就是布鲁日证券交易所的牌匾。
运河（Grachten）
布鲁日和阿姆斯特丹（Amsterdam）等其他一些欧洲城市被誉为“北方威尼斯”，这座城市凭借其运河和桥梁交错的街道，成为了一座宜人的旅游城市。当然，游客也可以选择乘坐游船游览运河，我们也体验了一把，虽然价格不菲，但确实非常愉快。游船之旅会带你领略一些其他地方难以到达的景点，因为并非每条运河都与街道相邻。船上的讲解非常精彩，生动地展现了这座城市的历史。
风景最美、或许也是最常被拍摄的地点，就是上图主图中的玫瑰码头（Rozenhoedkaai），它就在圣血大教堂的河岸对面。毕竟，布鲁日是一个被众多内河和运河环绕的岛屿。
我们全家在玫瑰码头前。
运河沿岸的一些建筑没有窗户，这据说是因为中世纪时税收是根据住宅的窗户数量来决定的！因此，一些建筑为了减少税收而保留了无窗状态。
布鲁日钟楼（Belfort Van Brugge）
布鲁日钟楼（Belfort van Brugge）堪称这座城市的标志性建筑。这座中世纪钟楼曾是国库和市政档案馆的所在地，自公元十三世纪起便作为瞭望塔，守护着市民的安全，防范火灾和其他危险。
该地区的钟楼并非主要为宗教用途，而是市政建筑，象征着城市的自治和身份认同。
如同布鲁日的其他建筑一样，这座钟楼也曾多次遭受火灾，并在历史上重建过数次。钟楼高逾八十米，可通过一条狭窄的楼梯登上塔顶。
这座钟楼使用一套始建于公元十六世纪的钟琴（法语：carillon）来演奏。钟琴由大小不一的钟组成，可以发出各种不同的音调。与人们通常的认知不同，钟琴不仅用于计时，在布鲁日，它还用于宣布市场开市、发出紧急情况警报以及庆祝节日。
这套钟琴由四十七个钟组成，其中一些钟的历史可以追溯到公元十八世纪，重量从一公斤到五千公斤不等。钟琴的概念实际上起源于低地国家（Lage Landen），其名称源自拉丁语“quarregon”，意为“一组四个钟”。
钟琴演奏艺术由钟琴演奏家（法语：carillonneur）表演，传统上在集市和节日期间演奏。在比利时，成为一名钟琴演奏家是一项非常光荣的职业，备受尊敬。在比利时，钟琴文化被视为一项重要的文化遗产，它促进了文化认同和社会凝聚力，保护工作重点在于保护和修复历史悠久的钟琴。因此，许多曾经沉寂的钟琴如今又重新焕发了生机。
由于钟琴的出现，低地国家也成为了全球铸钟领域的领军者。精准的调音需要对谐波泛音有深刻的数学理解。这种艺术与科学的融合，与这座城市的商业繁荣相得益彰。我们非常幸运，这次到访时，正好欣赏到了一场免费的钟琴音乐会。
音乐厅（Concertgebouw）
音乐厅（Concertgebouw）是一座极具现代感的建筑，与布鲁日的中世纪风貌形成鲜明对比，引发了诸多讨论。更重要的是，它是这座城市的交通枢纽。由于布鲁日的大部分街道狭窄且铺满鹅卵石，出租车和私家车很难进入市区。
葡萄园皇家贝居安会院（Prinselijk Begijnhof Ten Wijngaerde）
贝居安会院（法语：béguinage）是为贝居安会女修道士（beguines）而建的住所。贝居安会女修道士是生活在半修道院式社区中的世俗宗教女性，她们不发誓，也不脱离世俗生活。她们可以随时离开，许多修道士会外出工作，晚上再返回。贝居安会院是13世纪一场大型灵性复兴运动的一部分，这场运动尤其在低地国家地区盛行，强调自愿贫困、照顾穷人和病人以及虔诚的宗教信仰。这些住所通常是小型非正式的公社式住宅，没有修道院那样的正式规章。它们绝非慈善机构，因为它们的设立目的并非为穷人提供庇护。贝居安会女修道士来自各个社会阶层，但贫困女性只有在有富裕的捐助者承诺承担其生活所需的情况下才能被接纳。
“贝居安会院”一词源于该运动最早的支持者之一—兰伯特・勒・贝格（Lambert le Bègue）。
位于布鲁日的葡萄园皇家贝居安会院（Prinselijk Begijnhof Ten Wijngaerde）是最著名的贝居安会院之一，也是布鲁日唯一保存至今的贝居安会院。如今已无贝居安会修女居住于此，自公元1927年起，它便成为圣本笃会（拉丁语：Ordo Sancti Benedicti）的修道院。这座贝居安会院始建于公元十三世纪初，直接隶属于法国国王腓力四世（本名 Philippe Capet（法语）），因此得名“皇家贝居安会院”。“wijngaerde”在荷兰语中意为“葡萄园”。
尽管贝居安会修女在教义上属于正统天主教，但其灵修强调个人虔诚和实际的慈善行为。该运动有时因其神学上的独立性而受到质疑，但在布鲁日，它一直延续到公元二十世纪。最后一位真正的贝居安会修女于公元1927年去世。如今，这里居住着本笃会修女，仍然是一个宁静的宗教生活场所。
门（Poort）
城市周围有很多城门，因为这些城门曾是横跨运河的主要桥梁。Smedenpoort 意为“铁匠门”，是其中最古老的，可以追溯到公元十三世纪初。
经历，活动
布鲁日及其周边地区有很多跳蚤市场值得探索。
Eat and Drink
Chocolate (Chocolade)
You just cannot leave Belgium without buying a box of Belgian chocolates, which now form a major sector of Belgian economy. Belgium's association with chocolate goes back to the early 17th century CE, when the country was under Spanish occupation, and cocoa was brought into the country from Central and South America. Apparently there are more than 2,000 chocolatiers in Belgium for such a small country!
The word from the street told me that the best chocolates in Bruges is from The Chocolate Line, famous for their creatively flavoured bar chocolate.
Beer (Bier)
Beer (Bier) in Belgium goes back to the 1st century CE in the region. Belgians drink and they are famous for their beer, but surprisingly they do not drink as much as I imagine. I believe they are ranked 25th in the world in terms of beer consumption per capita (The number one being Czechia (Czech: Česko)). However Belgians pride themselves in their own beer culture and history and they produce an exceptionally large varieties of brews, and literally every single pub is a micro-brewery by itself. Clearly there are many large and famous breweries producing bottled beer, the main culture and varieties actually come from the individual pub themselves, and every pub will serve their own brew. The few pubs that I have visited offer more than 100 different varieties plus a dozen of their personal brews and many serve a dégustation menu!
Belgium’s brewing identity is strongly associated with Trappist (officially the Order of Cistercians of the Strict Observance (Latin: Ordo Cisterciensis Strictioris Observantiae) beers. While Bruges itself is not home to an operating Trappist monastery, the influence of monastic brewing culture does shape its beer identity.
The range of traditional Belgian beer available is due to a variety of brewing processes, methods of fermentation, the use of different type of yeasts and other ingredients, and traditional knowledge passed through families and breweries for centuries. This results in beers of different colours, flavours and textures, and it has been claimed that Belgium produces more variety of brews than any other countries. These are all the traits that distinguish Belgian beer from the more industrial beers available. This makes the beer culture an ICH of Belgium.
Belgium has the lowest legal drinking age in the world at 16. As a matter of fact prior to the 1960s CE, children were often served beers at schools! While this is illegal nowadays, it is actually unrare that children are drinking privately at home.
While it is no secret that Belgium brews lots of beer in pubs, the De Halve Maan Brewery (Huisbrouwerij De Halve Maan) stands out as the main brewery to visit. It stands out not exactly for its beer, and this is not to say their beer is not up to standard, but for an interesting story. This family-run brewery has been brewing for more than 500 years in the city of Bruges, and it made waves in 2016 CE by building a 3-km pipe from its brewery inside the city all the way to its bottling plant outside the city, to avoid trucks going through the alleys in Bruges, forming the ultimate pipe dream!
Despite initial doubts from city councillors and financiers, the beer pipeline became an instant urban hit and was made successful through crowdfunding. Moreover it sparks endless jokes about illegal tapping points and secret home drilling as the pipes are not really that deep underground, as the picture above attests. The owners came up with the out-of-the-world idea because they wanted to retain the cultural icon inside Bruges, and hence they chose to pursue the pipe idea, instead of the easier way of simply moving the brewery out of the town. By the way the name 'Halve Maan' means 'half-moon' in Dutch. Definitely moonstruck!
Frikandel
Other than the beer and chocolate, which is a good combination itself, the other local food is the minced-meat sausage or sometimes patty called frikandel, which is ubiquitous. Some people argue this is not a sausage as it is not encased in a skin.
Travel Suggestions and Logistics
Bruges deserve a few days of exploration, and the island can easily be completed on foot for a morning stroll. The belfry's entrance fee depends on your age, I paid EUR €12, while the Historium is €14. The beguinage is very close to the train station.
UNESCO Inscriptions
The Béguines were women who dedicated their lives to God without retiring from the world. In the 13th century they founded thebéguinages, enclosed communities designed to meet their spiritual and material needs. The Flemish béguinagesare architectural ensembles composed of houses, churches, ancillary buildings and green spaces, with a layout of either urban or rural origin and built in styles specific to the Flemish cultural region. They are a fascinating reminder of the tradition of theBéguinesthat developed in north-western Europe in the Middle Ages.
Twenty-three belfries in the north of France and the belfry of Gembloux in Belgium were inscribed in 2005, as an extension to the 32 Belgian belfries inscribed in 1999 as Belfries of Flanders and Wallonia. Built between the 11th and 17th centuries, they showcase the Roman, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles of architecture. They are highly significant tokens of the winning of civil liberties. While Italian, German and English towns mainly opted to build town halls, in part of north-western Europe, greater emphasis was placed on building belfries. Compared with the keep (symbol of the seigneurs) and the bell-tower (symbol of the Church), the belfry, the third tower in the urban landscape, symbolizes the power of the aldermen. Over the centuries, they came to represent the influence and wealth of the towns.
Brugge is an outstanding example of a medieval historic settlement, which has maintained its historic fabric as this has evolved over the centuries, and where original Gothic constructions form part of the town's identity. As one of the commercial and cultural capitals of Europe, Brugge developed cultural links to different parts of the world. It is closely associated with the school of Flemish Primitive painting.
The art of making music with bells (carillon) is performed by carillonneurs, traditionally during market and festive days. The programme to safeguard carillon culture exists in seventy-six cities and villages of Belgium and in thirty countries worldwide. The primary objectives are to preserve the components of historic carillon culture (practices, repertoire, instruments, music, oral and written history), and to ensure the continuity and sustainable development of carillon music as a living heritage that fosters cultural identity and social cohesion. Safeguarding efforts have also focused on preserving and restoring historic carillons with many formerly silent carillons now once more active. Transmission is secured by a number of educational initiatives, of which the Mechelen carillon school is the most important. Efforts have also been undertaken to revitalize the carillon, including promotion of new arrangements, compositions and genres of music. The programme combines respect for tradition with a willingness to innovate, constantly seeking new ways to safeguard carillon culture in contemporary society. It also promotes proven best practices, as well as a deep respect for local players in the field, building on cooperation among actors.
Making and appreciating beer is part of the living heritage of a range of communities throughout Belgium. It plays a role in daily life, as well as festive occasions. Almost 1,500 types of beer are produced in the country using different fermentation methods. Since the 80s, craft beer has become especially popular. There are certain regions, which are known for their particular varieties while some Trappist communities have also been involved in beer production giving profits to charity. In addition, beer is used for cooking including in the creation of products like beer-washed cheese and, as in the case of wine, can be paired with foods to compliment flavours. Several organizations of brewers exist who work with communities on a broad level to advocate responsible beer consumption. Sustainable practice has also become part of the culture with recyclable packaging encouraged and new technologies to reduce water usage in production processes. Besides being transmitted in the home and social circles, knowledge and skills are also passed down by master brewers who run classes in breweries, specialized university courses that target those involved in the field and hospitality in general, public training programmes for entrepreneurs and small test breweries for amateur brewers.
References
Comments
Please share your thoughts and comments about the blog. If you need suggestions to build a travel itinerary, please let me know. More than willing to help. I would also like to build a bespoke-in-depth travel community around UNESCO WHS and ICH.
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