里斯本（Lisboa）
- Maximus Nostramabus
- 2天前
- 讀畢需時 13 分鐘
已更新：8小时前
坐落在七座山丘之上的城市，融合了丰富的航海历史和现代文化 - 哲罗姆派修道院和里斯本贝莱姆塔 263；法朵，葡萄牙都市流行歌曲 00563
又一次搬家，这次搬到了南安普顿（英语：Southampton），我的博客也再次暂停更新。应广大读者的要求，我又回来了。
什么和为什么
里斯本（葡萄牙语：Lisboa），坐落于七座山丘之上，在欧洲的历史记忆中占据着独一无二的地位。这座首都城市由几个世纪的海上冒险、帝国辉煌、战争与悲剧以及文化复兴共同塑造而成。里斯本也是一座充满对比的城市：古老的堡垒俯瞰着充满都市法朵音乐的现代街区，金属质感的电车在陡峭的山坡上发出刺耳的鸣叫，现代葡萄牙人的生活与其层层叠叠的历史交相辉映。从中世纪城堡到河畔纪念碑，从神圣的场所到全景视野，这些地标揭示了构成里斯本身份认同的叙事线索。
地名
看
关于里斯本的旅游指南有很多，我们不会抄袭任何一本。我们只会列出我们参观过的具有历史和文化意义的景点，其中大部分位于阿尔法玛（Alfama）、上城区（Bairro Alto）和贝伦（Belém）这几个主要街区。
圣乔治城堡（Castelo de São Jorge）
圣乔治城堡（Castelo de São Jorge）坐落于里斯本最高的山丘之巅，俯瞰着这座城市最壮丽的景色之一。其历史至少可以追溯到公元前一世纪，当时罗马帝国（拉丁语：Imperium Romanum）的定居者在此筑起了防御工事。与其他堡垒和重要的哨所一样，这座城堡在历史上几经易手；它先后被西哥特人（拉丁语：Visigothi）和摩尔人（英语：Moors）占领，摩尔人在公元11世纪建造的城堡设计构成了如今城堡的基础。
历史上，这座城堡曾是重要的战略防御工事。公元1147年，在里斯本围城战（Cerco de Lisboa）期间，葡萄牙第一位国王阿方索一世（Afonso I，本名 Afonso de Borgonha）攻克了这座城堡，里斯本由此成为新兴的葡萄牙王国（Reino de Portugal）的一部分。
这座堡垒由国王若昂一世（João I，本名 João de Aviz）命名并献给圣乔治（希腊语：Γεώργιος）。若昂一世娶了英国兰开斯特的菲莉琶（英语：Philippa of Lancaster）公主为妻。圣乔治通常被描绘成屠龙者，在当时两国都非常受欢迎。
从文化角度来看，该遗址象征着韧性和民族认同，尤其考虑到它对葡萄牙帝国建立的重要作用。其塔楼、城垛和已发掘的考古遗址让游客得以追溯里斯本的中世纪发展历程，而俯瞰塔霍河的壮丽景色则有助于解释里斯本为何能成为海上强国。
圣卢西亚观景台（Miradouro de Santa Luzia）
从城堡步行下山不远即可到达圣卢西亚观景台（Miradouro de Santa Luzia），它是里斯本最受欢迎的观景台之一。观景台景色迷人：藤蔓缠绕的凉棚、盛开着三角梅的花园，以及描绘里斯本辉煌历史的精美阿兹勒赫瓷砖画（azulejo）。
这些标志性的蓝色瓷砖画意义非凡。其中一幅描绘了里斯本围城战，象征性地将观景台与附近的城堡联系起来。另一幅则展现了公元1755年地震前的城市景观，提醒游客这场毁灭性的灾难如何重塑了里斯本的建筑和文化轨迹。
圣卢西亚观景台不仅仅是一个风景优美的观景点，它更体现了里斯本的审美特色：自然风光、摩尔式建筑风格、基督教文化和艺术气息的完美融合。日出和日落时分，这里总是人潮涌动，热闹非凡。
里斯本大教堂（Sé de Lisboa）
里斯本大教堂（Sé de Lisboa），正式名称为圣玛丽亚大教堂（Santa Maria Maior de Lisboa），是里斯本最古老、最重要的教堂。它建于公元1147年收复失地后不久，特意建在原清真寺的遗址之上，象征着国家从伊斯兰教统治过渡到基督教统治。
从建筑风格上看，大教堂融合了多种元素。其罗曼式（英语：Romanesque）立面给人以堡垒般的坚固和庄严之感，而哥特式（德语：Gotik）小教堂和回廊则展现了教堂扩建的历史时期。公元1755年的里斯本大地震对大教堂造成了巨大破坏，此后，教堂进行了巴洛克式（法语：Baroque）和新古典主义（意大利语：neoclassicismo）风格的修缮，以适应当时的时代风尚。从某种意义上说，大教堂通过其近千年来风格的变迁，以视觉化的方式展现了葡萄牙历史的变迁。如今，大教堂仍然是重要的宗教场所和具有深厚象征意义的文化地标。
贝莱姆塔（Torre de Belém）
贝莱姆塔（Torre de Belém）矗立在贝伦河畔，是葡萄牙最具标志性的古迹之一。这座塔的正式名称是圣文森特塔（Torre de São Vicente），以纪念圣文森特（Vicente）。这座礼仪塔于公元1519年曼努埃尔一世（Manuel I ，本名 Manuel de Aviz）统治时期竣工。它既是堡垒，也是重要的礼仪门户，是船只的起降点，标志着里斯本作为海上帝国首都的地位。贝伦在葡萄牙语中意为伯利恒（阿拉伯语：بَيْت لَحَم）。
其建筑风格为曼努埃尔式（manuelino），是葡萄牙对晚期哥特式装饰风格的诠释，以海洋主题和王权象征为特征。这座建筑也融合了摩尔式（英语：Moorish）建筑风格，尤其是尖塔和穹顶。这种风格兴起于地理大发现时代（英语：Age of Discovery），当时葡萄牙的全球影响力达到了顶峰。
从文化角度来看，这座塔体现了葡萄牙与探险的紧密联系。船只从附近的港口出发，驶向非洲、亚洲和美洲，带回了财富、香料和文化遗产。在现代葡萄牙，贝伦塔既是民族自豪感的象征，也是帝国复杂历史遗产的见证。
遗憾的是，在我们参观期间，整座塔正在进行翻修，禁止入内，如上图所示。贝莱姆塔于公元2007年被列入联合国教科文组织世遗名录。
发现者纪念碑（Padrão dos Descobrimentos）
从塔楼步行不远即可到达发现者纪念碑（Padrão dos Descobrimentos）。这座纪念碑建于公元二十世纪中期，旨在纪念恩里克（Henrique，本名 Henrique de Aviz）王子逝世五百周年。其引人注目的设计形似一艘面向塔霍河的巨轮，两侧排列着纪念和颂扬葡萄牙探险家、制图师、传教士和君主的雕塑。
该纪念碑最初是为公元1940年葡萄牙世界博览会（Exposição do Mundo Português）而建，旨在颂扬塑造葡萄牙海上扩张的人物，同时也引发人们对探索在宗教、文学、历史及其他方面更广泛影响的思考。博览会结束后，纪念碑被拆除，后于公元二十世纪五十年代重建。
正面的主雕塑描绘了恩里克手持帆船模型的形象，而东西两侧的立面则装饰着各种具有历史意义的人物。
东立面从前到后：
瓦斯科・达伽马（Vasco da Gama）：著名的东方探险家；
阿方索・贡萨尔维斯・巴尔达亚（Afonso Gonçalves Baldaia）：西撒哈拉（阿拉伯语：الصحراء الغربية）探险家；
费迪南德・麦哲伦（Fernão de Magalhães）：第一支环球航行的探险队；
马蒂姆・德・索萨（Martim de Sousa）：航海家和管理员；
埃斯特旺・达伽马（Estêvão da Gama）：总督，瓦斯科・达伽马之子；
巴托洛梅乌・迪亚斯（Bartolomeu Dias）：第一位前往好望角（南非荷兰语：Kaap die Goeie Hoop）的探险家；
迪奥戈・康（Diogo Cão）：第一位到达非洲西海岸的探险家；
阿方索・德・阿尔伯克基（Afonso de Albuquerque）：葡属印度（Estado da Índia）的征服者；
圣方济・沙勿略（Francis Xavier，本名 Francisco de Jasso y Azpilicueta）：著名传教士，首次率领日本传教士；
克里斯托瓦・达伽马（Cristóvão da Gama）：东非征服者，瓦斯科・达伽马之子。
西立面从前到后：
若昂・扎尔科（João Zarco）：在马德拉群岛（Madeira）建立定居点的探险家；
吉尔・埃阿尼什（Gil Eanes）：探险家；
佩罗・德阿伦克尔（Pero de Alenquer）：非洲海岸探险家；
佩德罗・努内斯（Pedro Nunes）：数学家和游标尺的发明者；
佩罗・达・科维良（Pero da Covilhã）：外交家和探险家；
努诺・贡萨尔维斯（Nuno Gonçalves）：葡萄牙最著名的宫廷画家；
路易斯·德·卡蒙斯（Luís de Camões）：葡萄牙最伟大的诗人，巧合的是，我的小学就是以他的名字命名的；
恩里克・德・科英布拉（Henrique de Coimbra）：方济各会（拉丁语：Ordo Fratrum Minorum）传教士；
贡萨洛・德・卡瓦略（Gonçalo de Carvalho）：道明会（拉丁语：Ordo Prædicatorum）传教士；
费尔南・平托（Fernão Pinto）：探险家和作家；
兰开斯特的菲莉琶；
佩德罗（Pedro，本名 Pedro de Aviz），科英布拉（Coimbra）公爵：若昂一世之子。
Hieronymites Monastery (Mosterio dos Jernonimos)
The Hieronymites Monastery (Mosterio dos Jernonimos) is one of Lisbon’s greatest architectural treasures and is probably the most visited tourist spot in the city, as seen from the long queue of visitors in the picture above. The Hieronymites is formally known as the Order of Saint Jerome (Latin: Ordo Sancti Hieronymi, OSH) is a religious order formed roughly during the 14th century CE to follow the religious principles made by the 5th century CE priest Saint Jerome (Greek: Εὐσέβιος Ἱερώνυμος, Eusebius Hieronymos). Construction began in early 16th century CE and took nearly a century to complete, financed largely through taxes on the lucrative spice trade.
The monastery is a triumph of Manueline architecture, characterised by intricate and ornate stone carvings, maritime motifs, and an ambitious spatial layout. It was here that da Gama and his crew spent their last night before departing for the East in 1497 CE, and da Gama’s tomb now rests inside the monastery.
Culturally and historically, the monastery embodies Portugal’s spiritual and imperial aspirations. Its cloisters are masterpieces of symmetrical beauty, while the church’s soaring columns create a sense of weightlessness and sacred calm. The monastery also houses the tomb of Camões, author of The Lusiads (Os Lusíadas), Portugal’s national epic about the Age of Discoveries.
Praça da Figueira
Praça da Figueira sits at the heart of Lisbon’s downtown area. Historically this was the site of a large mediaeval hospital. After the earthquake in 1755 CE, the hospital collapsed and was demolished, and the square gradually transformed into one of Lisbon’s primary marketplaces.
Its cultural value lies in its role as a commercial and social hub. For centuries, people from various parts of the city and surrounding countryside gathered here to trade goods, exchange news, and participate in urban life. Though the market stalls have disappeared, traces of this earlier era remain in the square’s layout and continued importance as a transportation and meeting point.
The equestrian statue of King John I symbolises the consolidation of Portuguese independence in the 14th century CE and reinforces the square’s link to national identity.
Buy and Do
Fado
During our short trip we went into a small bar for a cup of coffee and we listened to a rendition of fado, which to be honest at first sight was not particularly different from ordinary busking or lounge performance but again how ignorant was I!
Fado is one of those musical traditions that is much bigger than it first sounds. At its core, fado is an urban folk music that emerged in Lisbon in the early 19th century CE. It is usually performed by a single singer (fadista), accompanied by a Portuguese guitar (a big onion-shaped guitar with a metallic tone) and a classical guitar, as picture above. The music is restrained, and the emotional weight sits squarely on the voice and the lyrics.
Culturally, fado is inseparable from the Portuguese concept of saudade - a complex emotional state that combines longing, nostalgia and loss. Historically, fado developed alongside Portugal’s transformation from a maritime empire of force to a smaller, inward-looking nation. As imperial power waned in the 19th century CE, fado became a way of expressing collective disillusionment, loss and resilience. Fado lyrics traditionally deal with themes such as fate (fado literally means fate in Portuguese), unfulfilled love, loss, sea, poverty, leaving and the passage of time. These were realities of Lisbon’s port communities, where sailors departed for long voyages and uncertainty was a constant part of life.
Post-war Portuguese dictatorial government both promoted and controlled fado, sanitising some of its rebellious or socially critical elements while presenting it as a symbol of national identity. This control caused fado to fall out of favour amongst some younger Portuguese after the Carnation Revolution (Revolução dos Cravos) in the 1970s CE.
Today, fado houses in Lisbon function as cultural spaces rather than tourist curiosities. They are not usually publicly advertised. Performances are marked by silence, seriousness and rituals. Fado, according to the locals, functions less as an entertainment and more as an emotional expression and narration. It articulates personal and collective experience in a society shaped by fate, loss, and memory, a reflexion of Portuguese past and present.
Eat and Drink
Portuguese egg tart (Pastel de nata)
The famous Portuguese egg tart (pastel de nata), literally meaning creamy pastrie in Portuguese, is really an edible icon of Portugal, and the place where it all started is still standing there in Pastéis de Belém, a stone's throw away from Hieronymites Monastery.
The famous tart's origins trace back to the Monastery in the early 19th century CE, when many monasteries used large quantities of egg whites to starch clerical clothing and clarify wine. That left them with a lot of surplus egg yolks, which monks and nuns across Portugal turned into rich, yolk-heavy desserts. The egg tart is one of the most refined outcomes of that tradition of convent desserts.
After the Liberal Revolution (Revolução Liberal) of 1820 CE, many monasteries were closed or defunded. To survive, monks from Hieronymites Monastery sold the egg tart recipe to a nearby sugar refinery which became the current restaurant. The restaurant is massive, considering that it only serves dessert. The original recipe remains secret and is still made in a separate 'out-of-bound' kitchen, an intentional act of cultural guardianship, although this simple recipe is almost replicated or transformed world-wide, including KFC, which now sells the tart as a signature item.
A Portuguese egg tart is traditionally eaten warm, often dusted with cinnamon or powdered sugar, accompanied by an espresso (bica). This pairing is so embedded in daily life that it functions almost as a social ritual.
As someone from Hong Kong (Chinese: 香港, Hoenggong), we have our similar version of egg tarts to savour and I have to say they are very similar except for the caramelised top, possibly indicating a connexion existed somewhere in history.
Travel Suggestions and Logistics
Gloria Funicular (Ascensor da Glória)
One of the 'must-do' in Lisbon is to ride on the iconic local yellow trams of Gloria Funicular (Ascensor da Glória), as Lisbon is actually very hilly to conquer by foot only. The tramway is extremely popular with tourists and I believe it has a bigger reputation than the San Francisco Cable Car, at least historically.
Unfortunately just two months after our visit, one of the trams got derailed and collided with a building, killing 16 passengers. At the time of writing, the tramway is still suspended from service.
We came from a cruise and reaching the two monuments at Belém requires only a short inexpensive bus ride.
UNESCO Inscriptions
Standing at the entrance to Lisbon harbour, the Monastery of the Hieronymites – construction of which began in 1502 – exemplifies Portuguese art at its best. The nearby Tower of Belém, built to commemorate Vasco da Gama's expedition, is a reminder of the great maritime discoveries that laid the foundations of the modern world.
Fado is a performance genre incorporating music and poetry widely practised by various communities in Lisbon. It represents a Portuguese multicultural synthesis of Afro-Brazilian sung dances, local traditional genres of song and dance, musical traditions from rural areas of the country brought by successive waves of internal immigration, and the cosmopolitan urban song patterns of the early nineteenth century. Fado songs are usually performed by a solo singer, male or female, traditionally accompanied by a wire-strung acoustic guitar and the Portuguese guitarra – a pear-shaped cittern with twelve wire strings, unique to Portugal, which also has an extensive solo repertoire. The past few decades have witnessed this instrumental accompaniment expanded to two Portuguese guitars, a guitar and a bass guitar. Fado is performed professionally on the concert circuit and in small ‘Fado houses’, and by amateurs in numerous grass-root associations located throughout older neighbourhoods of Lisbon. Informal tuition by older, respected exponents takes place in traditional performance spaces and often over successive generations within the same families. The dissemination of Fado through emigration and the world music circuit has reinforced its image as a symbol of Portuguese identity, leading to a process of cross-cultural exchange involving other musical traditions.
References
Comments
Please share your thoughts and comments about the blog. If you need suggestions to build a travel itinerary, please let me know. More than willing to help. I would also like to build a bespoke-in-depth travel community around UNESCO WHS and ICH
留言