玲珑（Lenggong）
东南亚亚当的起源 - 玲珑谷地的考古遺址1396；马来武术 01504；马来西亚的早餐文化：多民族社会的就餐体验 02113
什么和为什么
在马来西亚（马来语：Malaysia）的一次出差期间，我途经怡保（Ipoh）附近，并特地绕道去参观了一处非常独特的考古遗址。玲珑（Lenggong）是东南亚考古学界最重要的遗址之一，考古发掘工作在此揭示了关于该地区史前时期的诸多重要信息。该地区发现的“霹雳人（orang Perak）”，引发了人们的极大兴趣，也为理解现代人类—即解剖学意义上的早期现代人（英语：anatomically modern humans，AMH，属于智人（homo sapiens）的早期形态）—的演化提供了新的认知。该遗址被公认为非洲以外，在单一地点所发现的、关于早期人类活动持续时间最长的记录之一。
正如上图所示，亚洲的早期 AMH 主要以“北京猿人”、“爪哇猿人（Homo erectus erectus）”和“弗洛里斯人（Homo floresiensis）”为代表，他们大致生活在七十五万年前。而“霹雳人”则揭示了人类演化史上的一个全新分支，其年代相对较近，距今约一万至三万年。这一点至关重要，它表明马来西亚是一个在考古学上独具特色的区域，且拥有相对较晚近的史前历史。
玲珑谷保存了跨越近两百万年的原位考古记录，详尽记载了古人类在不同地质时代中的适应过程：
武吉布努（Bukit Bunuh）与哥打坦潘（Kota Tampan）：这些露天遗址出土了旧石器（英语：paleolithic）时代的石制工具，如手斧和砍砸器。约一百八十万年前，一颗陨石撞击了武吉布努，形成的撞击岩（英语：suevite impactites）将这些遗物完好地保存了下来，证实了早期人类在该地区的活动。
崩塌洞（Gua Gunung Runtuh）：这是一处位于“象头山（Bukit Kepala Gajah）”山体群中的石灰岩洞穴遗址，对于了解旧石器时代晚期的丧葬习俗和人类骨骼解剖特征至关重要。由于在此发现了“霹雳人（下文将详述）”，该遗址被视为最重要的考古点之一。
老虎洞（Gua Harimau）与草场洞（Gua Padang）：这些遗址提供了从狩猎采集群体向新石器（英语：neolithic）时代农业社会过渡的证据，出土了陶器、青铜斧及各类装饰品。
独特的自然环境解释了为何人类能够在此长期定居。该山谷水源充足，土地肥沃，地貌多样，涵盖了河流阶地、石灰岩山丘和天然洞穴。正如前文所述，考古学家已在此发现了人类技术活动与定居的证据，其中包括用于加工石器的作坊遗址。
尽管这次行程时间不长，但它确实令我大开眼界，为我开启了关于该地区人类史前历史的全新视野。
地名
“玲珑”一词的词源已不可考。然而，近期的研究表明，它可能是古语“lenggong”，意为“方舟”的直接字面翻译，一些当地传说将其与该地区的历史神话联系起来。另一种较为合理的解释源于当地的民间故事：一位土著男子试图砍伐一棵树，树干在倒下时卡在了两棵小树之间。在马来语中，树干卡住的现象被称为“terlanggong”。
“霹雳（Perak）”在马来语中意为“银”，是该州的名称，源于其曾经拥有的锡银矿历史。
看
玲珑考古博物馆（Muzium Arkeologi Lenggong）
所有从山谷中挖掘出的文物都在玲珑考古博物馆（Muzium Arkeologi Lenggong）得到了专业的展出。博物馆的亮点无疑是保存完好的霹雳人骨骼。
这具骨骼是马来西亚理科大学（Universiti Sains Malaysia）的考古团队于1991年在崩塌洞发现的。该洞穴显然是他的墓穴，位于玲珑谷的象头山（Bukit Kepala Gajah），距离博物馆约一百公里。这具骨骼属于男性，身高约一百五十七厘米，年龄在五十岁左右，经鉴定距今约一万一千年。它被广泛认为是该地区迄今为止发现的最完整的史前人类骨骼。2004年，同一所大学，但由不同的团队，在玲珑谷的特鲁克克拉瓦洞（Gua Teluk Kelawar）发现了另一具骨骼。这次发现的是一位身高一百四十八厘米的“霹雳女”，据信年龄在四十岁左右。
霹雳男子的葬礼仪式十分庄重，他呈胎儿姿势，右肩、左侧和臀部都堆放着河螺（Brotia costula）和其他动物骨骼，周围环绕着石器。洞穴中没有其他墓葬。霹雳人的一个特殊之处在于他的左臂畸形：他的左臂和左手比右臂和右手小得多。这种畸形可能是由一种名为短指骨症（英语：brachymesophalangia）的遗传性疾病引起的。由于只有一条健全的上肢，他的脊柱向右弯曲，这进一步佐证了上述观点。
这项研究得出的一个结论是，霹雳男子生前必定是当地一位受人尊敬的成员，因为他的葬礼非常精致且耗费人力。霹雳男子被放入墓穴时，墓中放置了食物祭品，然后覆盖了一层贝壳，之后又覆盖了更多祭品、工具和贝壳，最后才覆盖上一层泥土。此外，他当时已经五十多岁了，在那个年代，这对于残疾人来说算是高龄了。人们必须照顾他，但除非他在某种社会等级制度中地位显赫或举足轻重，否则人们不会主动承担照顾他的责任，即使是集体照顾也不会。
博物馆内的复制洞穴的设计和装饰都与真正的崩塌洞一模一样。尽管博物馆规模不大，但馆藏非常丰富，在我看来绝对不容错过。另一方面，玲珑还有什么其他值得一游的地方呢？
玲珑遗址表明，该地区的史前历史虽然丰富，但却相对年轻。这里发现的石器和工具作坊距今已有七万五千年历史，而爪哇猿人和北京猿人的年代则可追溯到三十万年前。一些工具，例如斧头，被认为是迄今为止在非洲以外发现的最古老的工具。玲珑遗址发现的所有考古遗迹都与这些洞穴有关。
象头山（Bukit Kepala Gajah）
真正的崩塌洞位于博物馆以北一百公里的象头山。沿途道路两侧是茂密的热带雨林，但并没有什么特别值得一看的景色。出于显而易见的原因，除了注册的考古学家之外，其他人都不得入内。
沿途还有一些其他的洞穴，例如犀牛洞（Gua Badak），洞内有一些岩画。科学研究表明，这些岩画大约只有一百多年的历史，是由一个名为尼格利陀（Negrito）的部落创作的。尼格利陀在西班牙语中意为“小黑人”，这表明了这些土著居民的身材。
附近另一个洞穴老虎洞，是一处距今约三千至五千年前的墓地。考古学家在该遗址发现了七具人类骨骼，以及青铜斧和各种珠宝首饰。这些青铜斧表明马来西亚早期就存在青铜（英语：bronze）器制造技术，这也是东南亚最早使用金属的记录。
经历，活动
马来武术（Silat）
在我们参观博物馆期间，附近正好有一个社交聚会，会上进行了一场大型的马来传统武术—马来武术（silat）的表演。事实上，我第一次观看席拉特是在东南亚运动会（英语：Southeast Asian Games）上，当时它被列为正式比赛项目。
马来武术历史悠久，据记载起源于公元八世纪兰卡苏卡（Langkasuka）王朝时期。关于“silat”一词的词源有多种说法，但最被广泛接受的说法是它源自马来语“sekilat”，意为“如闪电般迅捷”。
从某种意义上说，马来武术是马来版的中国武术，既包含徒手搏斗，也包含武器的使用。说到武器，最著名的无疑是马来短剑（kris），一种当地特有的弯刀。
马来武术的招式大多以人体解剖结构、自然界和动物的动作为灵感，并以此命名。除了身体上的自卫之外，马来武术还涵盖哲学、传统医学、表演艺术和社会礼仪。马来武术的核心原则之一是培养“艾達卜（adab，阿拉伯语：ادب）”：礼仪、伦理和尊重。精湛的武术技巧与精神修养、谦逊和社区保护密不可分。从业人员应避免挑起冲突，仅在自卫和维护正义时才使用武力。
马来武术发展成为一种系统化的格斗技，其目的在于防御、在传统的马来苏丹国服役以及个人发展。沿海和内陆的马来人聚居地都发展出了各自的区域风格（流派）。与武术类似，马来武术也分为几个分支：
Silat cekak，意为“短”，注重直接的防御动作，利用实时即兴反击来应对近距离攻击。
Silat lincah，意为“快”，以其快速流畅的动作、灵活的步法和反击而闻名。
Silat melayu 是一种艺术化的表演形式，常用于仪式、婚礼和皇家活动，注重优美的动作和音乐的配合，而非致命的武力。它是最常见且作为一项体育运动进行练习的武术分支。
Silat seni gayong 是二十世纪中期创立的一种现代艺术形式的马来武术，强调关节技、近身搏斗和武器运用，有点像武术和柔道（日语：じゅうどう）的结合体。
显然，西拉特如今已不再作为实战形式，而更像是一种体育锻炼或表演运动。更重要的是，它在马来人中扮演着传承传统的重要角色。集体训练通常在傍晚或夜间于庭院等开放空间进行，由师傅（jurakaka）指导，被视为该地区重要的文化遗产。
吃喝
Ipoh cuisine (Masakan Ipoh)
Lenggong is close to the important city of Ipoh, which has a very large Cantonese population. One of the most famous dishes of Ipoh is the Ipoh bean sprouts and chicken, which is no more than steamed chicken served with local bean sprouts, usually comes with Cantonese rice noodles. This dish is found almost everywhere in Ipoh and Lenggong.
Another local delicacy from freshwater fish is pekasam, which is a fermented freshwater fish marinated in salt and toasted rice. It does come with a strong taste and smell.
Malaysian breakfast (Sarapan Malaysia)
I lived in Malaysia for more than ten years and I have to say I was somehow proud, and ironically a bit dumbfounded that Malaysian breakfast culture, centred on communal dining habits and various iconic culinary staples, was officially inscribed as an ICH. Proud that of course I practised it regularly with my famly and friends when I was in Malaysia; baffled as in this is honestly just a regular human custom practised almost everywhere and I have to say I do not find anything peculiar about it, even it does carry its interesting customs. At the very least perhaps it avenges on its neighbour Singapore (Singapura) for hijacking its hawker centres as an ICH, and I would still really want to write about my experiences.
Malaysian breakfasts are cheap and affordable, pretty much reflecting overall living cost of the country. It partly comes from the fact that these staples were historically designed to cater largely for the working class, shift workers and retirees. Foods are generally small portions, what Malaysians call 'fist-size', designed for quick but filling consumption or communal conversation.
The other important element of Malaysian breakfast is that it must be able to operate in an egalitarian but pluralistic forum. Malaysia is a multi-ethnic, multi-cultural, multi-faith melting pot society with Malay, Chinese and Indian living together, and hence the food must not only be able to serve all people, but to bring all people together. After all they work, live and share a table together.
Breakfast spaces are as culturally important as the dishes, as far as I could tell. A stall, restaurant, market or home kitchen bring people together across the morning. In a busy shop, regulars may return to the same table and order the same meal combination. The meal creates a repeated social moment, and repetition is one way culture becomes familiar. More often than not most hawker stores and coffee shops encourage sharing tables and that is just another walk of harmonious life in the country.
There are a number of core culinary breakfast pillars that I would highlight:
Nasi lemak: Literally meaning 'fatty rice' in Malay, this is the national dish of Malaysia, as blogged in George Town. Effectively this is rice steamed in coconut milk and pandan, usually served on a banana leaf with sambal, fried anchovies (ikan bilis), fried peanuts, hard-boiled egg and cucumber. Incredibly this full meal is usually considered a breakfast item and sold ubiquitously. Many a times it is served as a takeaway item and wrapped in a sheet of old newspaper in a tetrahedral dumpling, highlighting its 'old-schoolness'!. To be frank, I personally never appreciate the dish too much: it is simply too much and hot for me for a breakfast, to the ire of my many Malaysian friends...
Roti canai: The name itself shows the eclectic nature of the Malaysian food and culture: 'roti' comes from the Sanskrit word 'रोटिका (roṭikā)' meaning 'bread' while 'canai' is the Malay word meaning 'knead'. This is the flaky, chewy, thin flatbread served with dal, mutton or chicken curry (Tamil: கறி, kaṟi), and sambal. I really like the bread but I could not stand the heat of the curry especially in the morning.
Toast with kaya: My family's favourite, as this is simply a charcoal-toast served cold butter, the closest to my basic life. However in many kopitiam, it comes with two soft-boiled eggs with soy sauce and white pepper, which again goes against my normal diet instinct... Even for a person who loves and sucks an egg on a daily basis, I do not usually enjoy egg with a heavy soy sauce all mixed into a goo. Also notice the word 'kopitiam': it is a combination of 'kopi' transliterating 'coffee' into Malay and '-tiam' from the Chinese word '店 (dian)' meaning 'small shop'.
Teh tarik: The famous 'pulled tea' as translated from Malay, is the absolute national beverage. The iconic pulling motion involves pouring hot milk tea repeatedly between two metallic mugs at height to cool the liquid, thoroughly blend ingredients, and create a signature frothy top layer. My culinary friends once told me it was merely a performance: they usually just simply stirred it with a spoon and the effect would be identical, and they performed the pulling after the spoon-stir. Other popular beverage is coffee (kopi) and incredibly the Australian Nestlé-owned chocolate drink Milo.
This non-exhaustive list definitely does not define every Malaysian breakfast, unlike other countries. In a country of many communities and regional traditions, mornings may begin with congee, noodles, laksa, dosa, dim sum (Chinese: 点心, dianxin), or other local favourites. I would need to go on forever for a full list. Availability changes from town to town and household to household anyway. The point is not to create a single national menu, but to notice the range and the harmonious coexistence of different cultures.
The national breakfast table also reflects centuries of cultural and trade exchange. Ingredients and techniques have travelled through trade, migration and settlement. Communities adapt dishes, make them locally recognisable and pass them along. What counts as 'traditional' is often the result of many layers of history. A roti canai eaten in Malaysia is not simply a replica of a flatbread from elsewhere; it has taken on local forms, serving customs and meanings, and we all enjoy it cordially. No one genuinely owns anything but we simply share and appreciate every bit of it. On retrospect, this is probably what I enjoyed in this country most. To me the ICH is more about the reflection of the symphonious Malaysian culture (or multi-culture) rather than the breakfast itself.
Malaysian breakfast culture transcends mere sustenance. It oozes a communal culture, and my wife seems to have appreciated more than me as she urged me to bring her to the famous chain Old Town for breakfast from time to time, she particularly likes the kaya toast. It just happened in this case we did it in Lenggong as well.
旅行建议
Other than driving, there is no way you can reach the site. It is easily reached from Ipoh after 30-minute drive. The museum is free for entry. Spend a half-day in the museum.
联合国教科文组织题词
Situated in the lush Lenggong Valley, the property includes four archaeological sites in two clusters which span close to 2 million years, one of the longest records of early man in a single locality, and the oldest outside the African continent. It features open-air and cave sites with Palaeolithic tool workshops, evidence of early technology. The number of sites found in the relatively contained area suggests the presence of a fairly large, semi-sedentary population with cultural remains from the Palaeolithic, Neolithic and Metal ages.
Silat is a combative art of self-defence and survival rooted in the Malay Archipelago. Traced back to the early days of the Langkasuka Kingdom, Silat has evolved into a fine practice of physical and spiritual training also encompassing traditional Malay attire, Silat musical instruments and customs. There are many styles of Silat, inspired by the movements of human anatomy, nature and animals. For example, Silat Harimau involves an aesthetic rhythmic motion imitating the art of self-defence and attack of the tiger. In Malaysia alone, there are more than 150 known Silat styles whose names derive from natural elements such as animals and plants. Originally, Malay Silat was practised by warriors – as noble enforcers of justice – but nowadays practitioners consist of masters, gurus, teachers and students, who are responsible for maintaining the practice. Training sessions usually take place in the evening or at night in an open space such as a courtyard, led by the Master and ‘Jurukaka’. A large number of practitioners have been trained and nurtured, and an increasing number of training centres have been established in various regions. With this accelerated dissemination, the practice has increasingly transcended its status as a martial art to become a performing art; consequently, it is now a popular sport for health and leisure.
Breakfast culture in Malaysia plays an important role among Malaysia’s multi-ethnic societies. The element can be found throughout the submitting State, which comprises 14 states. It is centred on food and spending time together over a morning meal. The element is a living heritage related to the traditional dietary practices which encompasses staple traditional foods such as Nasi Lemak, Roti Canai and drinks Teh Tarik. The element is practiced in both private and public spaces from the rural to urban areas. The Malays, Chinese, Indians, and other ethnic groups throughout Malaysia are both food producers and diners, and actively involved in the practice of the element. The preparation and consumption of Malaysian breakfast foods, although originally practiced by a particular ethnic group, has eventually become common and savoured by all, regardless of ethnic background. The foods are economical to produce and appreciated by people from all walks of life and ethnic backgrounds as an affordable and complete meal to start the day. The culture has been passed down from generation to generation to ensure the sustainability of local traditional culinary practices. Locals from different ethnic groups and genders unite around traditional breakfast delicacies. In addition to being a source of pride and a significant part of Malaysia’s gastronomic history, these morning dishes have also become a distinctive element of culture and identity that connects diverse ethnic groups within Malaysia.
参考
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