Lisbon (Lisboa)
- Maximus Nostramabus
- Nov 28, 2025
- 12 min read
Updated: Jan 12
City sitting on seven hills, mixed with rich maritime history and contemporary culture - Monastery of the Hieronymites and Tower of Belém in Lisbon 263; Fado, urban popular song in Portugal 00563
Another relocation, this time to Southampton, another hiatus of my blog. Based on popular demand, I am on board again.
What and Why
Lisbon (Portuguese: Lisboa), sitting on seven hills, occupies a unique space in Europe’s historical imagination. It is a capital shaped by centuries of maritime adventure, imperial splendour, wars and tragedies, and cultural rebirth. This is equally a city of contrasts: where ancient fortresses overlook modern neighbourhoods alive with urban fado music, where metallic trams squeal their way up vertiginous hills, and where modern Portuguese life unfolds in conversation with its layered history. From mediaeval castles to riverside monuments, from sacred spaces to panoramic viewpoints, these landmarks reveal the narrative threads that define Lisbon’s identity.
Toponymy
While there is no conclusive theory alluding the origin, it is mostly accepted the name Lisboa originates from its Proto-Celtic name Olisippo. The name comes from the ancient name of the main river Tagus (Tejo), Lisso.
See
Again there are plenty of guidebooks about Lisbon and we are not to plagiarise any of them. We shall just list those of historic and cultural significance which we have visited, most of them are in the main districts of Alfama, Bairro Alto and Belém.
Saint George's Castle (Castelo de São Jorge)
Perched atop the highest hill in Lisbon, Saint George's Castle (Castelo de São Jorge) commands one of the most extraordinary views of the city. Its origin dates back to at least the 1st century BCE, when settlers from the Roman Empire (Latin: Imperium Romanum) fortified the hill. Similar to other fortresses and important sentinels, the spot changed hands multiple times over history; it was later taken over by the Visigoths (Latin: Visigothi), followed by the Moors, whose 11th-century CE castle design forms the basis of what survives today.
Historically, the castle served as a strategic defensive structure. In 1147 CE, the castle was captured by Dom Afonso I (né Afonso de Borgonha), the first king of Portugal, during the Siege of Lisbon (Cerco de Lisboa), leading to the city’s transition into the newly emerging Kingdom of Portugal (Reino de Portugal).
The fortress was named and dedicated to Saint George (Greek: Γεώργιος, Geṓrgios) by King John I (João I, né João de Aviz), who had married the English princess Philippa of Lancaster. Saint George was normally portrayed as a dragon-slayer and was very popular in both countries during the time.
Culturally, the site symbolises resilience and national identity, especially considering its relevance towards the establishment of Portugal as an empire. Its towers, battlements, and excavated archaeological sites allow visitors to trace Lisbon’s mediaeval development, while the expansive views over the Tagus River help explain why it became a maritime powerhouse.
Miradouro de Santa Luzia
A short walk downhill from the castle brings you to Miradouro de Santa Luzia, one of Lisbon’s most beloved belvedere. Visually, it is striking: vine-covered pergolas, gardens filled with bougainvillea, and azulejo tile panels illustrating snapshots of Lisbon’s illustrious histories.
These iconic bluish azulejo tilework here is significant. One of the panels depicts the Siege of Lisbon, connecting the belvedere symbolically with the nearby castle. Another shows views of the pre-1755 CE earthquake cityscape, reminding visitors of the devastating event that reshaped Lisbon’s architectural and cultural trajectory.
More than a scenic lookout, Santa Luzia reflects Lisbon’s aesthetic identity: a blending of the nature, Moorish influence, Christian culture, and artistic feel. The lookout is extremely popular and crowded during sunrise and dusk.
Lisbon Cathedral (Sé de Lisboa)
Lisbon Cathedral (Sé de Lisboa), officially the Cathedral of Saint Mary Major (Santa Maria Maior de Lisboa, is the city’s oldest and most important church. Constructed soon after the 1147 CE reconquest, it was deliberately built atop the ruins of a former mosque, to symbolise the nation transitioning from Islamic to Christian rule.
Architecturally, the cathedral is highly syncretic. Its Romanesque façade evokes fortress-like solidity and sternness, while Gothic (German: Gotik) chapels and cloisters reveal periods of expansion. The cathedral suffered immense damages during the 1755 CE earthquake, and as a result this prompted Baroque and neoclassical renovations, suiting styles during the era. In a sense the cathedral visually represents Portugal’s shifting history through its stylistic changes across almost a millennium. Today the cathedral remains a functioning place of worship and a cultural landmark with symbolic depth.
Tower of Belém (Torre de Belém)
Standing at the river’s edge in Belém, the Tower of Belém (Torre de Belém) is one of Portugal’s most iconic monuments. Officially the tower is named Tower of Saint Vincent (Torre de São Vicente), to venerate Saint Vincent (Vicente), the ceremonial tower was completed in 1519 CE during the reign of Manuel I (né Manuel de Aviz). The tower served as a fortress and ceremonial gateway as the embarkation and disembarkation point, marking Lisbon as the capital of a seafaring empire. Belém is the Portuguese word for Bethlehem (Arabic: بَيْت لَحَم, Bayt Laḥm).
Its architectural style is Manueline (manuelino), a Portuguese expression of late Gothic ornamentation characterised by maritime motifs, and symbols of royal power. The architecture also incorporates Moorish architecture, especially the minaret and cupolas. This style emerged during the Age of Discoveries, when Portugal’s global influence was at its height.
Culturally, the tower embodies Portugal’s connexion to exploration. Ships departed from the nearby harbour to Africa, Asia, and the Americas, bringing back wealth, spices, and cultural influences. In modern Portugal, Belém Tower stands as a reminder of both national pride and the complex legacies of empire.
Unfortunately during our visit, the entire tower is undergoing renovation and entry is prohibited, as picture above. The tower is inscribed as a UNESCO WHS in 2007 CE.
Monument of Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos)
A short walk from the tower, the Monument of Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos) was erected in the mid-20th century CE to commemorate the 500th anniversary of Prince Henry (Henrique, né Henrique de Aviz) death. Its striking design resembles a ship facing the Tagus, with sculptures commemorating and celebrating Portuguese explorers, cartographers, missionaries, and monarchs, arranged along either sides of the landmark.
The monument was originally built for the 1940 CE Portuguese World Exhibition (Exposição do Mundo Português) and celebrates the figures who shaped Portugal’s maritime expansion, but it also invites reflection on the broader consequences of exploration, in terms of religious, literature, history and other aspects. The monument was demolished after the exhibition but was rebuilt in the 1950s CE.
The main sculpture at the front depicts Henry holding a sailing ship model, while the Eastern and Western facade graces various people of historical significance.
On the Eastern facade from front to back:
Afonso V (né Afonso de Aviz): King of Portugal;
Vasco da Gama: famous explorer to the Orient;
Afonso Gonçalves Baldaia: explorer to Western Sahara (Arabic: الصحراء الغربية, Al-Sahra' Al-Gharbia);
Pedro Cabral (né Pedro de Gouveia): discoverer of Brazil (Brasil);
Ferdinand Magellan (né Fernão de Magalhães): the first explorer team to circumnavigate the globe;
Nicolau Coelho: navigator;
Gaspar Corte-Real: explorer to Canada;
Martim de Sousa: navigator and administrator;
João de Barros: historian;
Estêvão da Gama: governor and son of Vasco da Gama;
Bartolomeu Dias: first explorer to Cape of Good Hope (Afrikaans: Kaap die Goeie Hoop);
Diogo Cão: first explorer to west coast of Africa;
António de Abreu: explorer to Southeast Asia;
Afonso de Albuquerque: conquistador of Portuguese India (Estado da Índia);
Saint Francis Xavier (né Francisco de Jasso y Azpilicueta): famous missionary and led first mission to Japan (Japanese: 日本, Nippon);
Cristóvão da Gama : conquistador in East Africa and son of Vasco da Gama.
On the Western facade from front to back:;;
Ferdinand (Fernando, né Fernando de Aviz): son of John I;
João Zarco: explorer who established settlements in the Madeira;
Gil Eanes: explorer;
Pero de Alenquer: explorer of the African coast;
Pedro Nunes: mathematician and inventor of the nonius;
Pedro Escobar: discoverer of São Tomé & Príncipe;
Jácome de Maiorca: cartographer;
Pero da Covilhã: diplomat and explorer;
Gomes de Zurara: chronicler;
Nuno Gonçalves: Portuguese most famous court painter;
Luís de Camões: Portuguese greatest poet and coincidentally my primary school was named after him;
Henrique de Coimbra: Franciscan (Latin: Ordo Fratrum Minorum) missionary;
Gonçalo de Carvalho: Dominican (Latin: Ordo Prædicatorum) missionary;
Fernão Pinto: explorer and writer;
Philippa of Lancaster;
Peter (Pedro, né Pedro de Aviz), Duke of Coimbra: son of John I.
Hieronymites Monastery (Mosterio dos Jernonimos)
The Hieronymites Monastery (Mosterio dos Jernonimos) is one of Lisbon’s greatest architectural treasures and is probably the most visited tourist spot in the city, as seen from the long queue of visitors in the picture above. The Hieronymites is formally known as the Order of Saint Jerome (Latin: Ordo Sancti Hieronymi, OSH) is a religious order formed roughly during the 14th century CE to follow the religious principles made by the 5th century CE priest Saint Jerome (Greek: Εὐσέβιος Ἱερώνυμος, Eusebius Hieronymos). Construction began in early 16th century CE and took nearly a century to complete, financed largely through taxes on the lucrative spice trade.
The monastery is a triumph of Manueline architecture, characterised by intricate and ornate stone carvings, maritime motifs, and an ambitious spatial layout. It was here that da Gama and his crew spent their last night before departing for the East in 1497 CE, and da Gama’s tomb now rests inside the monastery.
Culturally and historically, the monastery embodies Portugal’s spiritual and imperial aspirations. Its cloisters are masterpieces of symmetrical beauty, while the church’s soaring columns create a sense of weightlessness and sacred calm. The monastery also houses the tomb of Camões, author of The Lusiads (Os Lusíadas), Portugal’s national epic about the Age of Discoveries.
Praça da Figueira
Praça da Figueira sits at the heart of Lisbon’s downtown area. Historically this was the site of a large mediaeval hospital. After the earthquake in 1755 CE, the hospital collapsed and was demolished, and the square gradually transformed into one of Lisbon’s primary marketplaces.
Its cultural value lies in its role as a commercial and social hub. For centuries, people from various parts of the city and surrounding countryside gathered here to trade goods, exchange news, and participate in urban life. Though the market stalls have disappeared, traces of this earlier era remain in the square’s layout and continued importance as a transportation and meeting point.
The equestrian statue of King John I symbolises the consolidation of Portuguese independence in the 14th century CE and reinforces the square’s link to national identity.
Buy and Do
Fado
During our short trip we went into a small bar for a cup of coffee and we listened to a rendition of fado, which to be honest at first sight was not particularly different from ordinary busking or lounge performance but again how ignorant was I!
Fado is one of those musical traditions that is much bigger than it first sounds. At its core, fado is an urban folk music that emerged in Lisbon in the early 19th century CE. It is usually performed by a single singer (fadista), accompanied by a Portuguese guitar (a big onion-shaped guitar with a metallic tone) and a classical guitar, as picture above. The music is restrained, and the emotional weight sits squarely on the voice and the lyrics.
Culturally, fado is inseparable from the Portuguese concept of saudade - a complex emotional state that combines longing, nostalgia and loss. Historically, fado developed alongside Portugal’s transformation from a maritime empire of force to a smaller, inward-looking nation. As imperial power waned in the 19th century CE, fado became a way of expressing collective disillusionment, loss and resilience. Fado lyrics traditionally deal with themes such as fate (fado literally means fate in Portuguese), unfulfilled love, loss, sea, poverty, leaving and the passage of time. These were realities of Lisbon’s port communities, where sailors departed for long voyages and uncertainty was a constant part of life.
Post-war Portuguese dictatorial government both promoted and controlled fado, sanitising some of its rebellious or socially critical elements while presenting it as a symbol of national identity. This control caused fado to fall out of favour amongst some younger Portuguese after the Carnation Revolution (Revolução dos Cravos) in the 1970s CE.
Today, fado houses in Lisbon function as cultural spaces rather than tourist curiosities. They are not usually publicly advertised. Performances are marked by silence, seriousness and rituals. Fado, according to the locals, functions less as an entertainment and more as an emotional expression and narration. It articulates personal and collective experience in a society shaped by fate, loss, and memory, a reflexion of Portuguese past and present.
Eat and Drink
Portuguese egg tart (Pastel de nata)
The famous Portuguese egg tart (pastel de nata), literally meaning 'cream pastry' in Portuguese, is really an edible icon of Portugal, and the place where it all started is still standing there in Pastéis de Belém, a stone's throw away from Hieronymites Monastery.
The famous tart's origins trace back to the Monastery in the early 19th century CE, when many monasteries used large quantities of egg whites to starch clerical clothing and clarify wine. That left them with a lot of surplus egg yolks, which monks and nuns across Portugal turned into rich, yolk-heavy desserts. The egg tart is one of the most refined outcomes of that tradition of convent desserts.
After the Liberal Revolution (Revolução Liberal) of 1820 CE, many monasteries were closed or defunded. To survive, monks from Hieronymites Monastery sold the egg tart recipe to a nearby sugar refinery which became the current restaurant. The restaurant is massive, considering that it only serves dessert. The original recipe remains secret and is still made in a separate 'out-of-bound' kitchen, an intentional act of cultural guardianship, although this simple recipe is almost replicated or transformed world-wide, including KFC, which now sells the tart as a signature item.
A Portuguese egg tart is traditionally eaten warm, often dusted with cinnamon or powdered sugar, accompanied by an espresso (bica). This pairing is so embedded in daily life that it functions almost as a social ritual.
As someone from Hong Kong (Chinese: 香港, Hoenggong), we have our similar version of egg tarts to savour and I have to say they are very similar except for the caramelised top, possibly indicating a connexion existed somewhere in history.
Travel Suggestions and Logistics
Gloria Funicular (Ascensor da Glória)
One of the 'must-do' in Lisbon is to ride on the iconic local yellow trams of Gloria Funicular (Ascensor da Glória), as Lisbon is actually very hilly to conquer by foot only. The tramway is extremely popular with tourists and I believe it has a bigger reputation than the San Francisco Cable Car, at least historically.
Unfortunately just two months after our visit, one of the trams got derailed and collided with a building, killing 16 passengers. At the time of writing, the tramway is still suspended from service.
We came from a cruise and reaching the two monuments at Belém requires only a short inexpensive bus ride.
UNESCO Inscriptions
Standing at the entrance to Lisbon harbour, the Monastery of the Hieronymites – construction of which began in 1502 – exemplifies Portuguese art at its best. The nearby Tower of Belém, built to commemorate Vasco da Gama's expedition, is a reminder of the great maritime discoveries that laid the foundations of the modern world.
Fado is a performance genre incorporating music and poetry widely practised by various communities in Lisbon. It represents a Portuguese multicultural synthesis of Afro-Brazilian sung dances, local traditional genres of song and dance, musical traditions from rural areas of the country brought by successive waves of internal immigration, and the cosmopolitan urban song patterns of the early nineteenth century. Fado songs are usually performed by a solo singer, male or female, traditionally accompanied by a wire-strung acoustic guitar and the Portuguese guitarra – a pear-shaped cittern with twelve wire strings, unique to Portugal, which also has an extensive solo repertoire. The past few decades have witnessed this instrumental accompaniment expanded to two Portuguese guitars, a guitar and a bass guitar. Fado is performed professionally on the concert circuit and in small ‘Fado houses’, and by amateurs in numerous grass-root associations located throughout older neighbourhoods of Lisbon. Informal tuition by older, respected exponents takes place in traditional performance spaces and often over successive generations within the same families. The dissemination of Fado through emigration and the world music circuit has reinforced its image as a symbol of Portuguese identity, leading to a process of cross-cultural exchange involving other musical traditions.
References
Comments
Please share your thoughts and comments about the blog. If you need suggestions to build a travel itinerary, please let me know. More than willing to help. I would also like to build a bespoke-in-depth travel community around UNESCO WHS and ICH
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