Santiago de Compostela
- Maximus Nostramabus
- Jul 8
- 11 min read
Updated: Sep 5
Final destination of the Saint James' Way - Santiago de Compogstela (Old Town) 347; Routes of Santiago de Compostela: Camino Francés and Routes of Northern Spain 669
What and Why
Santiago de Compostela is genuinely an underrated city in terms of tourism, cultural heritage and history. Legend has it that Saint James (Aramaic: ܝܥܩܘܒ, Yaʿqōḇ), one of the first apostles of Jesus (Hebrew: ישוע, Yeshua) was executed and beheaded in Jerusalem (Hebrew: יְרוּשָׁלַיִם, Yerushalayim) by Herod Agrippa (né Marcus Agrippa), his followers then carried his remains to the current area, formerly known as Hispania under the Roman Republic (Latin: Respublica Romana). Saint James was carried by sea to and buried in the region because it was there he was preaching the gospel and spreading Christianity after Jesus died. Nothing really happened until after 800 years when in 814 CE the hermit Pelagius (Spanish: Pelayo) observed strange lights, possibly a meteor shower, in the night sky and interpreted this as a supernatural sign. This was then conveyed to King Alfonso II (né Alfonso Astur-Leonesa) of Asturias (Latin: Asturum) who recognised this miracle and rediscovered Saint James' grave. He then ordered the construction of the chapel on the site and he became the first pilgrim to the church in 1075 CE. The chapel was then reconstructed to become a Romanesque church soon after and gradually started the Christian pilgrimage tradition to worship Saint James. The site eventually grew to a major city as it is now, becoming one of the three most prominent Christian pilgrimage cities, after Jerusalem and Rome (Italian: Roma).
Starting from this, the tradition of the pilgrimage developed over time and became more organised in the form of Saint James' Way (Camino de Santiago). Pilgrims from all over Western Europe came to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela (Catedral Basílica de Santiago de Compostela) to pay tribute to Saint James. As pilgrims come from everywhere, these routes form a network of ways, rather than a single route, that converge to the cathedral as their final destination, as shown below. Pilgrims visited various churches and religious places along the routes, while also stayed in various religious institutions for lodging and food. These networks of routes eventually became the network of sites inscribed under UNESCO WHS: of particular importance and popularity is the French Way (Camino Francés), running from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port of France along the northern coastline of Spain (España). The other routes of significance are those of Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France (French: Routes de St-Jacques de Compostelle en France) which is a separate WHS, as blogged in Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert. Other popular routes include the Primitive Way (Camino Primitivo) which runs from Oviedo to Santiago de Compostela. All these routes are now available in the semi-'official' website 'Camino de Santiago' detailing all the common routes from Europe, although strictly speaking any route goes: as long as the final destination is the cathedral. A famous movie fictionalising the pilgrimage is The Way.
The routes are prominently marked by the iconic shell symbol either on the wall, on the ground or on a signpost, as below. There are many stories relating why the shell is being used as the symbol of the pilgrimage route. One of the most likely one is that mediaeval Christians had been collecting shells, especially regional scallop shell, along the Spanish coastline routes where shells are abundant ashore. Another legend also traced that Saint James once rescued a Spanish knight covered in seashells, and hence the shell has become the emblem of the pilgrimage routes.
These routes were formalised and officially declared as 'a great pilgrimage (Latin: magna peregrinatio)' by Pope Alexander VI (Italian: Alessandro VI, né Roderic de Borja) along with the pilgrimages to Jerusalem and Rome.
Nowadays, every year more than 300,000 people set foot on the routes, often taking months for their respective journey, with the peak during early summer. When we were there we literally witnessed non-stop flow of hikers and people doing the pilgrimage, as picture above. Although the tradition started all the way in the Middle Ages, and has been fairly organised throughout, and had never been discontinued. The practice gained major traction during mid-20th century CE when Generalissimo Francisco Franco Bahamonde strongly promoted the pilgrimage as a nationalistic exercise.
As pilgrims toll along the journey, their accommodation and boards are taken care of in various religious institutions, called hospital, as long as they carry the official pilgrimage passport called credecial. Some of these hospitals are run privately or by local councils. One of the most famous hospitals is the Hostal de los Reyes Católicos, which is right next to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. The hospital was originally constructed for pilgrims by Queen Isabella I (Isabel I, né Isabel Trastámara) of Castile (Castilla) and King Ferdinand II (Fernando II, né Fernando Trastámara) of Aragon (Aragonese: Aragón). While today the hostel has become a luxury hotel, it continues to uphold this tradition by providing free services to a limited number of pilgrims on a daily basis. There is also a famous privately-run place called the Pilgrim House, where pilgrims can receive support, resources or simply a resting place who have just finished the Saint James' Way. Many pilgrims do a meditation, have a cup of coffee, do laundry and store backpack for the day at minimal cost.
Every official pilgrim has to register and obtain the credencial, and the pilgrim will get the credencial stamped in each of the hospital or church along the routes as a record of the pilgrimage. When the Saint James' Way is complete at the cathedral, a certificate of achievement called the compostela will be given to the pilgrim at the official Pilgrim Office (Oficina del Peregrino). To obtain the certificate, one has to walk at least 100 km or cycle 200 km and prove that the motivation of the walk is at least partially religious.
Many pilgrims carry a prominent shell or shell-shaped souvenir to identify themselves. Many also carry a special walking stick, called the pilgrim's staff, with a hook and a shell as another identification, as picture above. Naturally, while the original idea was either a pilgrimage or a form of spiritual cleansing, nowadays the journey has increasingly become a tourist, cultural or sporting exercise.
Toponymy
The name 'Santiago' is the local Galician evolution of vulgar Latin 'Sancti Iacobus', meaning 'Saint James' or 'Saint Jacob', as blogged in Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert. The name 'Jacob' translates to 'supplanter'. 'Jacob' becomes 'James' via a chain of Yaʿqōḇ (Aramaic: ܝܥܩܘܒ), Yaʿqōḇ (Hebrew: יַעֲקֹב), Iakób (Greek: Ἰακώβ), Iacobus (Latin), Iacomus (late Latin), Jammes (French), and then to James through a number of transliteration.
The word 'compostela' comes from the Latin 'compositum tella', meaning 'organised burial ground' or 'necropolis', suggesting the previous use of the area during Roman times.
See
Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela (Catedral Basílica de Santiago de Compostela)
The jewel of the crown of the Saint James' Way is definitely the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, officially the Metropolitan Archcathedral Basilica of Santiago de Compostela (Santa Apostólica y Metropolitana Iglesia Catedral de Santiago de Compostela). The cathedral is one of the only few on the planet that is built on the grave of an apostle, one of the other famous one is Saint Peter's Basilica (Latin: Basilica Sancti Petri) of Vatican (Latin: Vaticanum). The current cathedral was reconstructed in late 11th century CE following the plan of the Basilica of Saint-Sernin (French: Basilique Saint-Sernin), as blogged in Toulouse.
Clearly the most important exhibit or relic of the cathedral is Saint James' coffin, which is not open to public, but is regarded as the ultimate destination of the pilgrimage. One can however enter a small crypt behind the altar which apparently sits above the tomb. No form of photography is allowed but one is allowed to touch Saint James' statue, usually on his shoulders for a short while, as picture above. Remember that you are one of thousands in an endless queue of people.
If one is lucky one can witness the botafumeiro: the world's largest incense burner that swings across the transept during certain auspicious days of the year, symbolically purifying the air and the pilgrims. The practice dates back to 12th century CE.
As in many cathedrals in Europe, the cathedral underwent many renovabtions from its original Romanesque construction, with additions in Gothic (Germain: Gotik) and Baroque styles. To be honest when I reached the cathedral it does look unexpectedly modest to me, considering its reputation, especially when I have visited some very impressive cathetdrals (for example the one blogged in Toledo).
The cathedral is a important gathering place for locals and visitors thanks to its four major square-flanking facades. These four respective facades each has its own entrance.
The main front facade is facing the main square Plaza del Obradoiro. 'Obradoiro' means workshop in Galician and refers to the mason workshops during the cathedral construction times. The main Baroque-style entrance is on this facade and is called Pórtico da Gloria, which is considered a masterpiece of Romanesque sculpture. The door depicts various biblical scenes, while the main tower shows Saint James and his disciplines, all dressed as pilgrims. This entrance is the engraving of Spanish euro (EUR) coins.
The south facade or sometimes called Silversmith Facade (Facade das Pratarías) is bounded by the cathedral main cloister. The square houses many silversmith workshops that produce ornaments and souvenirs, since the Middle Age till now. On the friezes on this facade are the sculptured stories of the Bible (Greek: βιβλία, biblia) to educate the gospels to the general public.
Between the steps and the cloister is one of the biggest shell-shaped sculpture.
The massive cathedral houses three towers which can be viewed together from afar, as below. The two main towers were built on the Romanesque front facade and both were equipped with bells to convert them to belfries in the 15th century CE.
The more prominent tower is the clock tower, also known as the Trinity Tower (Torre de la Trinidad) is visible across the entire city. The tower is installed with a lantern which is only lit during a Jacobean Holy Year (Galician: Ano Santo Xacobeo), when the 25th July, the Saint James' Day fall on a Sunday. The tower was attached during the 14th century CE and the mechanical clock was only installed much later during the 19th century CE. During the Jacobean Holy Year, pilgrims enter the church through the Holy Door (Porta Santa) on the Eastern facade to conduct a religious service called the plenary indulgence.
Plaza del Obradoiro
The Plaza del Obradoiro is the main square of the city and as mentioned, the recognised destination of Saint James' Way. The square is flanked by four important buildings: the afore-mentioned Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela to the East, the Hostal dos Reis Católicos to the North, the Palacio de Rajoy (Galician: Pazo de Raxoi), the municipal government parliament to the West and the Colegio de San Jerónimo (Galician: Colexio de San Xerome), now part of University of Santiago de Compostela (Universidad de Santiago de Compostela), the university to the South. These four buildings also symbolise the four pillars of the city and the province of Galicia: faith, pilgrimage, public administration and university education.
The floor has paved eight rays converging towards the centre of the square from the eight cardinal directions, representing people from all over the world travelling into the city via Saint James' Way.
Palacio de Rajoy
The neo-classical building is now the city council and is the seat of the president of the Regional Government of Galicia (Xunta de Galicia).
Rúa da Vilar, Rúa da Raíña, Rúa do Franco
The three parallel streets south of the cathedral are the main eating and shopping arteries of the old town. The buildings of the streets are mostly a few hundred years old, many of them are the old-fashioned arcade-style townhouses. These streets in the old town are an absolute joy to stroll around. Very crowded.
The guide who guided us emphasised that the Rúa do Franco means the 'French Road' and does not refer to Generalissimo Franco.
Food Market (Mercado de Abastos)
The Food Market (Mercado de Abastos) is the second most visited place in the city after the cathedral. Though I find the streets of the old city much more interesting, especially food-wise.
Alameda Park (Parque Alameda)
The Alameda Park (Parque Alameda) is the main park of the city and offers a slightly elevated view of the cathedral, as picture below.
Buy and Do
Pilgrimage (Peregrinaje)
Do part of the Saint James' Way and experience the pilgrimage.
Fig (Higa)
I was taken aback when I saw souvenirs in the form of the obscene fig sign, as above being sold in Santiago de Compostela. While the sign has many interpretations across the world, most portray this as offensive, but incredibly not so in Galicia. The sign is a gesture of good luck and to ward off evil spirit in the region.
Eat and Drink
Octopus (Pulpo)
The must-eat local food is octopus (pulpo), which is available in every restaurant. Usually served in tapas. We had our serving of octopus in tapas in Petiscos do Cardeal.
Orujo
Orujo is the liquor distilled from the residues or mush left after pressing of the grapes, called pomace, and has become a popular local spirit. The liquor has a very high alcoholic content over 50% and thus is called firewater (aguardiente). Available everywhere.
Tarta de Santiago
When one walks around the city, one cannot run away from free offerings of the local dessert tarta de Santiago. The simple cake dates back to the Middle Age and mainly consist of ground almonds, eggs, and icing sugar, with various other flavourings. Uually when bought as a big cake, the cake is often signed with the Galician emblem.
Travel Suggestions and Logistics
We came from the major cruise port Vigo, which is just one-hour drive away from Santiago de Compostela, as we were on a cruise trip. Santiago de Compostela is easily accessible by road or by rail from major cities in Spain (España). The local airport only serves a small number of local flights.
A good itinerary will definitely connect a number of cities together along any of the Saint James' Way and set Santiago de Compostela as a final destination. The city itself is tiny and perhaps can spend one or two days.
UNESCO Inscriptions
This famous pilgrimage site in north-west Spain became a symbol in the Spanish Christians' struggle against Islam. Destroyed by the Muslims at the end of the 10th century, it was completely rebuilt in the following century. With its Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque buildings, the Old Town of Santiago is one of the world's most beautiful urban areas. The oldest monuments are grouped around the tomb of St James and the cathedral, which contains the remarkable Pórtico de la Gloria.
A network of four Christian pilgrimage routes in northern Spain, the site is an extension of the Route of Santiago de Compostela, a serial site inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1993. The extension represents a network of almost 1,500 km: coastal, interior of the Basque Country–La Rioja, Liébana and primitive routes. It includes a built heritage of historical importance created to meet the needs of pilgrims, including cathedrals, churches, hospitals, hostels and even bridges. The extension encompasses some of the earliest pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela, following the discovery in the 9thcentury of a tomb believed to be that of St. James the Greater.
References
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Please share your thoughts and comments about the blog. If you need suggestions to build a travel itinerary, please let me know. More than willing to help. I would also like to build a bespoke-in-depth travel community around UNESCO WHS and ICH
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