El Jadida (ⵎⴰⵣⵉⵗⴻⵏ)
- Maximus Nostramabus
- Aug 6, 2019
- 5 min read
Updated: May 22
Another Portuguese fort with a spectacular cistern - Portuguese City of Mazagan (El Jadida) 1058
What and Why
El Jadida (Tamazight: ⴰⵍ-ⵊⴰⴷⵉⴷⴰ), old name Mazagan, was registered as a UNESCO WHS in 2004, on the basis of its status as an 'outstanding example of the interchange of influences between European and Moroccan cultures' and as an 'early example of the realisation of the Renaissance ideals integrated with Portuguese construction technology'.
Morocco (ⵍⵎⵖⵔⵉⴱ, Lmeɣrib) has long occupied a strategic position between Europe, Africa, and the Atlantic Ocean. By the late mediaeval and early modern periods, coastal cities became increasingly important as centres of maritime commerce, diplomacy, and military competition. The Portuguese expansion along the African coast during the 15th and 16th centuries formed part of a broader movement associated with trade and religious expansions.
The city was seized by the Portuguese in the early 16th century and they built a citadel in 1514 as a new sea route sentinel in the region and Asia. The Portuguese would continue to control the city until mid-18th century when they abandoned it, then called Mazagão, as their last territory in Morocco. The city was then abandoned until the 18th century when certain ruined portions of the city were rebuilt. The reinvigorated city was renamed El Jadida (Arabic: مازيغن) meaning 'the new' and because of the Portuguese occupation, it is still very un-moorish. The city has now become a favourite beach-side resort and holiday destination. It is known for its historical significance, especially the legacy of Portuguese rule and its vibrant, modern cultural life. El Jadida is a fascinating mix of Moroccan traditions and European influences, seen in its architecture, cuisine, and daily life. The narrow streets and bustling souqs within the medina are a testament to traditional Moroccan urban life, with vibrant markets selling spices, textiles, and local handicrafts.
Toponymy
Ditto, it simply means 'the new' in Arabic. Ironically the place is celebrated for its Portuguese history, dating back at least 500 years. It is all relative!
See
To be totally honest I came to the city as the last stop of our Morocco trip, already knowing that there is not much in the citadel except for the cistern. According to Wikivoyage, the town is famous for the remains of Portuguese buildings and the cistern. However even the most dedicated historian may find the city a bit bland.
Cité Portugaise (ⴰⵙⴽⴽⵉⵍ ⵏ ⵜⴼⵉⵏⴰⵖ)
Meaning 'Portuguese city' in French, Cité Portugaise (ⴰⵙⴽⴽⵉⵍ ⵏ ⵜⴼⵉⵏⴰⵖ) is a star-shaped fortress which is very unmoorish and is a typical European fortress reflective of the Renaissance era.
The star-shaped fortress with its ditch and inclined ramparts is one of the first to employ Portuguese technology of new architecture and weaponry. El-Jadida is better preserved than other Portuguese fortifications in Morocco; most of the other Portuguese trading posts in the world having suffered many damaging changes.
The fortifications, including the bastions and gates, offer a glimpse into the strategic military architecture of the time. The fortress was constructed with massive granite walls that average 8 m high and up to 10 m thick. These walls protected the city from attacks and provide a remarkable historical setting. The fortress also features a number of four lookout points, as the map above shown, overseeing the Atlantic beach.
The tiny medina is shown below. To be frank, very small and incredibly quiet when we visited. Not hte usual busting bazaar that I was expecting.
Citerne (ⵙⵉⵜⴻⵔⵏⴻ)
A big 'Wow!' from me when I entered, the Citerne (ⵙⵉⵜⴻⵔⵏⴻ) is a semi-subterranean vault with a unique, eerie atmosphere. Right at the heart of the bastion sits a former warehouse or armoury which was converted into a cistern to prevent flooding during the early 16th century. The moorish-Manueline (Portuguese: manuelino) underground chamber was constructed with five rows by five rows of stone pillars supporting a vaulted ceiling.
It is famous for its ever-changing reflections from the little light beams coming from the ceiling hole, supposedly to collect rainwater, on the shallow layer of water, which creates stunning photographies against the dark stone arches. The beautiful but mystical ambiance of the cistern in a slightly haunting dark background really captures anyone's attention. My initial 'wow' honestly upsetted the tranquil and eerie atmosphere a little bit and so I tried to keep quite quiet all the way since, although my troop of girls got really excited and were taking photographs and dancing throughout. An unbelievable and unmissable photospot. The must-visit and crown jewel of El-Jadida where we spent the most time in.
Church of Our Lady of the Assumption (ⴰⵇⵉⵛⵛⵉⵜ ⵏ ⵍⵡⴰⵔⵉⴷⵉ ⵏ ⴰⵙⵓⵎⵓ)
A small stone Manueline church inside the citadel.
Minaret (ⵎⵉⵏⴰⵕ)
Directly across from the historic church sits a mosque with a highly unusual architectural anomaly: a white pentagonal minaret. It is widely considered by historians to be the only five-sided minaret in the entire world, repurposing one of the fort's original watchtowers.
Experience, Buy and Do
El Jadida is also known for its beautiful beaches, with sandy shores and clean waters ideal for swimming and relaxing. The main beach is a popular spot for both locals and tourists. The beach is perfect for sunbathing, water sports, or simply enjoying the picturesque coastal views. However looking from the bastions it does seem that the water is quite rough.
Eat and Drink
Rick's Cafe (ⴽⴰⴼⵉ ⵏ ⵔⵉⴽ)
As mentioned El Jadida was our last stop before we headed back. El Jadida is just 100 km south from the main city Casablanca (ⴰⵏⴼⴰ, Anfa) and we had dinner with the hugely popular Rick's Cafe (ⴽⴰⴼⵉ ⵏ ⵔⵉⴽ) which is the restaurant featuring the famous Humphrey Bogart's city-namesake movie Casablanca. The restaurant was only reconstructed in 2004, and actually has absolutely nothing to do with the movie. However for some reason it has garnered a lot of attention as it recreates the central bar area of the movie. Unfortunately the front desk service was really rude, although the food quality, food service and atmosphere made up for the night, which coincided with my wife's birthday.
Casablanca as you can imagine means 'white city' in Spanish, while the Berber name 'ⴰⵏⴼⴰ' is the ancient name of the city meaning 'the top'.
Travel Suggestions and Logistics
El Jadida is worth a half-day seaside walking visit from Casablanca. The entrance fee to the cistern is MAD 10 Dh. El Jadida is just one hour drive away from Casablanca. Aside from the above landmarks the city itself is rather bland.
UNESCO Inscription
The Portuguese fortification of Mazagan, now part of the city of El Jadida, 90-km southwest of Casablanca, was built as a fortified colony on the Atlantic coast in the early 16th century. It was taken over by the Moroccans in 1769. The fortification with its bastions and ramparts is an early example of Renaissance military design. The surviving Portuguese buildings include the cistern and the Church of the Assumption, built in the Manueline style of late Gothic architecture. The Portuguese City of Mazagan - one of the early settlements of the Portuguese explorers in West Africa on the route to India - is an outstanding example of the interchange of influences between European and Moroccan cultures, well reflected in architecture, technology, and town planning.
References
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Please share your thoughts and comments about the blog. If you need suggestions to build a travel itinerary, please let me know. More than willing to help. I would also like to build a bespoke-in-depth travel community around UNESCO WHS and ICH.
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