卡罗维发利（Karlovy Vary）
- Maximus Nostramabus
- 1天前
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历史悠久的温泉小镇，拥有华丽的美好年代建筑 - 欧洲温泉疗养胜地1613；手工玻璃生产的知识、工艺和技能 01961
什么和为什么
卡罗维发利（捷克语：Karlovy Vary）是欧洲最具标志性的休闲和温泉小镇之一，以其具有疗效的温泉水、矿泉、优雅的美好年代（法语：Belle Époque）建筑、丰富的文化遗产以及与波西米亚玻璃（České sklářství）工艺的历史渊源而闻名。卡罗维发利坐落在捷克（Česko）的波西米亚（Čechy）的郁郁葱葱的土地上，几个世纪以来一直吸引着皇室贵族、艺术家、作曲家以及寻求健康和优雅的旅行者。
卡罗维发利始建于公元1370年，现已发展成为欧洲温泉文化的象征，这一传统被联合国教科文组织列为“欧洲著名温泉小镇”之一，并被联合国教科文组织列为世遗。它的遗产与启蒙运动（英语：Enlightenment）和浪漫主义（德语：Romantik）时期息息相关，当时的健康、休闲和建筑和谐共存。
这座小镇以其美丽的风景和奇思妙想的建筑而闻名，经常被用作电影拍摄地：最著名的是《007：大战皇家赌场（英语：Casino Royale）》和《最后的假期（英语：Last Holiday）》。
地名
卡罗维发利（Karlovy Vary）在捷克语中意为“查理浴场”。其古英文名“Carlsbad”和德语名“Karlsbad”均体现了这一含义。该城以其创始人神圣罗马皇帝（拉丁语：Imperator Romanorum）查理四世（德语：Karl IV，原名 Karl von Luxembourg（德语））的名字命名。
看
卡罗维发利的特色在于其十三个主要温泉（horké prameny）和三百多个小泉眼，这些泉眼以其疗效显著的矿泉水而闻名，尤其富含碳酸氢钠（NaHCO3），遍布全城。这些泉眼均有编号，并流入各个水疗（lázně）和公共饮水处。我敢打赌，只有当地人才能把所有温泉都逛完。我们也会展示我们去过的那些。.
Hot springs (Horké prameny)
Karlovy Vary boasts numerous thermal springs (horké prameny) and they are ubiquitous in the town. Many of these springs are known for their therapeutic properties and are a major draw for spa visitors. Here is a list of some of the prominent ones and those I have visited and drunk the water:
Hot Spring (Vřídlo)
Probably the most famous of all springs, the Hot Spring (Vřídlo) gushes water up to 12 m and is literally the symbol of the all spas in Karlovy Vary. The size of the geyser is why it is housed in a separate pavilion. The temperature from the geyser is boiling hot and cannot be consumed directly. They are distributed to five different smaller fountains and cooled to a much lower temperature for consumption.
Charles IV Spring (Pramen Karla IV)
According to legend, Charles IV healed his ailing limbs with water from this spring. The story is depicted on the bronze relief hanging directly above the spring bowl, also stating the foundation of the town, as above.
Market Spring (Trhové Jaro)
Located at the market square, the water flow from this spring had been intermittent.
Libuše Spring (Libuše Pramen)
Located in the Hot Spring Colonnade, this spring is named after the legendary Czech princess Libuše. This spring is very rich in minerals and is known for its healing power. Based on my taste, the saltiest of all springs.
Mill Spring (Mlýnský Pramen)
There are a number of springs under the Mill Colonnade (Mlýnská Colonáda), to be described later. These springs have been known since the 16th century CE and are consideredamongst the oldest thermal springs in town. The Mill Spring was one of the first waters to be recommended for drinking cures since the early 18th century CE. The mineral water from the spring was also previously bottled and distributed all over the world.
The spring was named after an old mill which was sitting at the site.
Rusalka Spring (Rusalka Pramen)
Housed under the Mill Colonnade and one of the most popular springs. Rusalka is a female bad spirit or nymph that kills people by tickling in various folklores.
Castle Spring (Zámecký Pramen)
A spring that looks a bit like a lighthouse. Again another salty spring, located in the Castle Colonnade (Zámecká Kolonáda).
Park Spring (Sadová Pramen)
The spring was discovered in the mid-19th century CE during the excavation of the foundations of Army Spa Institution (Vojenský Lázeňský Ústav). The spring is very popular with visitors of the town for its high content of dissolved carbon dioxide and its slightly sour taste.
Prince Wenceslas Spring (Jaro Knížete Václava)
The spring located in the Mill Colonnade as well, gushes water up to 4 m and hence it had been often compared to the Hot Spring for its strong power. The water from the spring had also been used for the production of the traditional medicinal salt. The spring is named after the national patron Wenceslaus I (Václav, né Václav Přemyslid)
Snake Spring (Hadí Pramen)
The Snake Spring (Hadí Pramen) is the most recent spring made accessible to the public, in 2001 CE. It has quickly become a fan's favourite as the cool water is pressurised and carbonated, literally free sparkling water. As pictured above, I cannot miss free fresh cool sparkling water directly from a pump.
Mill Colonnade (Mlýnská Colonáda)
The large stone Mill Colonnade was built in Neo-Renaissance style, built during the late 19th century CE is the iconic landmark of the town. The colonnade attic gable is decorated with 12 sandstone allegorical statues representing the months of the year. As aforementioned, the colonnade was built to house a number of springs together, including the largest Hot Spring.
The colonnade was named after the Mill Spring, not the other way round.
Market Colonnade (Tržní Kolonáda)
Standing next to the massive Mill Colonnade is the equally impressive Market Colonnade (Tržní Kolonáda), which was built to house the oldest baths and springs. Most importantly it houses Charles IV Spring which literally started the town. This location is also the city centre and it is probably the most photogenic.
The very beautiful colonnade was built in a Swiss style during the late 19th century CE. The wooden colonnade was originally intended to be a temporary structure, with the big hall sheltering Charles IV Spring.
Castle Colonnade (Zámecká Kolonáda)
Standing just above the Market Colonnade is the Castle Colonnade. It also represents one of the earlier springs to be discovered. In 1769 CE, a local physician David Becher proposed the exploitation of the mineral water for balneological purposes, after conductin various chemical analysis of the springs. As a result the first arbour was built over the Castle Spring in late 18th century CE.
The current Castle Colonnade was converted to Castle Spa (Zámecké Lázně) in 2000 CE, after the original colonnade was demolished and rebuilt. All the springs were diverted to the Market Colonnade, while the original arbour is still open to the public.
Park Colonnade (Sadová Kolonáda)
The highly ornate cast-iron colonnade was originally a part of a two-wing roofed promenade veranda with a restaurant and a concert hall. Today only the east part of the wing remained known as the Park Colonnade (Sadová Kolonáda), with the other wing so dilapidated that it was demolished in 1965 CE. I personally see this as the most beautiful colonnade of the four.
Grandhotel Pupp
The iconic and posh hotel in Grandhotel Pupp oozes charm, luxury and artistic atmosphere. The hotel has a history for more than 300 years and had enchanted celebrities all over the world. Such is its attractive status that a movie Last Holiday was made with the hotel being its main feature. I literally came to take a look of this hotel because of the movie.
The hotel current neo-Baroque style was a result of countless refurbishments over the years. The hotel began as Saxony Hall in 1701 CE but was later bought over and prospered by businessman Jan Pop (German: Johann Pupp). Pop named the hotel in his Germanised name due to German occupation during his time and retained its name today.
Diana Lookout (Rozhledna Diana)
Diana Lookout (Rozhledna Diana) is an observation tower built in the early 20th century CE which is located just above Grandhotel Pupp. From the hotel, one can hike up the tower at a very comfortable and beautiful trail or one can take a funicular which only takes three minutes. There is a small garden-zoo at the base of the tower where one can spend a few hours there. The vista from the tower is alright, nothing spectacular, as the hill is not really tall.
Buy and Do
Spa (Lázně)
What else but to take a spa treatment? This town has one of the highest concentrations of hot mineral springs in the world and what makes it worth is that they are mostly very affordable. Honestly it will be a surprise if someone comes to Karlovy Vary without undergoing any spa treatment. To me it would be my bucket list to fulfil. We had our session in the famed and palatial Elizabeth Spa (Alžbětiny Lázně): Nothing but excellent, and really good value for money!
Karlovy Vary has also recently developed a good name for medical tourism, in particular in the area of cosmetic surgery.
Bohemian glass (České sklo)
Bohemian glass (České sklo) is a world-renowned product that originates from the historical region of Bohemia of Czechia. With a legacy that spans more than 800 years, it represents a significant part of European decorative arts and cultural heritage. It is famous for its beautiful colours, innovative design and high-quality craftmanship. These glass or crystal-ware ranges from vases, champagne decanters, chandeliers, figurines and they are some of the best known Czech exports and souvenirs. Another famous glass item is the glass bead known as druk beads, for use in bracelets or necklace.
The history of Bohemian glass dates back to the 13th century CE when skilled glassmakers in Bohemia began producing high-quality glassware using abundant natural resources such as quartz, potash, and timber from the region, especially Karlovy Vary. By the 17th century CE, Bohemian glass had distinguished itself from the already famous Venetian glass (Italian: vetro veneziano) through innovations in engraving and colouring techniques. It became highly valued across Europe for its clarity, beauty, and craftsmanship, although nowadays due to mass-production technology their replicas could be found everywhere in the world.
Bohemian glass is especially known for its:
high lead content that gives it exceptional clarity and brilliance;
intricate engraving and cutting;
innovative techniques such as overlaying and enamelling;
cultural artistry.
Craftsmanship has traditionally been passed down through generations, maintaining high standards of skill and artistry. This makes each piece a symbol of cultural pride and artisan legacy, truly worthwhile of its ICH status and hence I have been looking for the glass once I stepped foot in the city.
Bohemian glass has long been a prestigious export and is an important part of the Czechia's cultural and economic identity. It was especially popular among European royalty and nobility in the Baroque and Rococo periods. Today, Bohemian glass is a cherished souvenir and luxury item. It is celebrated in both traditional cut glassware and contemporary glass art and naturally I bought a small colourful but affordable vase home.
Amongst the most famous Czech glass producers are: Moser, probably the most luxurious Czech brand, Rückl and Crystalex, one of the largest exporters.
Eat and Drink
Becherovka
The national drink of Czechia has to be Becherovka, which is a bitter apéritif usually served chilled. Literally served in all Czech restaurants before any meal, the liqueur was invented by Jan Becher, hence its label, by mixing and distilling more than 20 types of herbs and spices with the mineral waters from Karlovy Vary. The drink was made as a digestive aid and has an alcohol content of 38%. To me it is a very strong drink with a gingery flavour. The drink is often referred locally as the '13th spring (13. pramen)' to indicate its identity with the town of its birth.
Apparently the recipe is a closely guarded secret, which only two employees of the Becherovka factory know, although the original recipe was displayed in the Jan Becher Museum (Jan Becher Muzeum). The museum tour does give a very good account of the history and culture of Becherovka and is definitely worth a visit.
A lighter cocktail known as beton is also extremely popular amongst Czech, or those new to the drink. Beton simply means mixing Becherovka with tonic water and I had my more than usual dosage of alcohol through Becherovka or Beton during my trip in Czechia. I had to say it was the first time I felt tipsy.
Spa wafer (Lázeňské oplatky)
One specialty of the town is its spa wafer (lázeňské oplatky), which is lightly sweet wafer-dessert with a distinctive taste from the spring water, served to spa-goers. The wafer is of a fairly large size, approximately 10 cm in diameter. The origin of this wafer dates back to the 18th century CE, arising from the same recipe of the communion bread, with added sugar and spices. The wafer was said to be light and revitalising and hence gives a nice finishing touch after the spa treatment. I have to say that it was almost tasteless for my palate.
Travel Suggestions and Logistics
The city itself deserves probably two to three days of visit, and almost everywhere is accessible on foot. It is highly unlikely Karlovy Vary would be the only destination in Czechia. Karlovy Vary is always taken as a side trip from the beautiful capital Prague (Praha) which is only two hour-drive away. Another nearby city to connect would be Pilsen (Plzeň).
UNESCO Inscriptions
This transnational serial property comprises eleven spa towns, located in seven European countries: Baden bei Wien (Austria); Spa (Belgium); Františkovy Lázně; Karlovy Vary; Mariánské Lázně (Czechia); Vichy (France); Bad Ems; Baden-Baden; Bad Kissingen (Germany); Montecatini Terme (Italy); and City of Bath (United Kingdom). All of these towns developed around natural mineral water springs. They bear witness to the international European spa culture that developed from the early 18th century to the 1930s, leading to the emergence of grand international resorts that impacted urban typology around ensembles of spa buildings such as baths, kurhaus and kursaal (buildings and rooms dedicated to therapy), pump rooms, drinking halls, colonnades and galleries designed to harness the natural mineral water resources and to allow their practical use for bathing and drinking. Related facilities include gardens, assembly rooms, casinos, theatres, hotels and villas, as well as spa-specific support infrastructure. These ensembles are all integrated into an overall urban context that includes a carefully managed recreational and therapeutic environment in a picturesque landscape. Together, these sites embody the significant interchange of human values and developments in medicine, science and balneology.
Traditional handmade glass production entails shaping and decorating hot and cold glass to produce hollow glass objects, flat glass and crown glass. It is characterised by the high degree of craftsmanship inherent to the work and by strong team values due to the need to respect the previous steps performed by other glassmakers. Most practitioners work in small or medium-sized glassworks or studios. Each glassworks develops techniques unique to its catalogue and references. Similarly, each practitioner develops his or her own style, even when creating identical pieces. Production in traditional glassworks is based on the division of tasks, with glassmakers traditionally working in teams according to their respective specialisation. Individual work is also common, particularly in cold-glass techniques and jewellery creation. The knowledge and skills related to handmade glass production are transmitted within families or through apprenticeships in glassworks. The practice is also transmitted through formal training, such as in vocational schools, high schools, colleges and universities. The characteristics of handmade glass production generate a strong sense of belonging, respect and solidarity among practitioners. The centuries-old practice has also shaped specific terminologies, festive cultures and religious functions that still retain important cultural and social meanings to this day.
References
Comments
Please share your thoughts and comments about the blog. If you need suggestions to build a travel itinerary, please let me know. More than willing to help. I would also like to build a bespoke-in-depth travel community around UNESCO WHS and ICH.
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