San Ignacio
- Maximus Nostramabus
- Aug 12, 2019
- 6 min read
Updated: 1 day ago
Spanish missionaries conversion programme - Jesuit Missions of the Guaranis: San Ignacio Mini, Santa Ana, Nuestra Señora de Loreto and Santa Maria Mayor (Argentina), Ruins of Sao Miguel das Missoes (Brazil) 275; Chamamé 01600
What and Why
During the Age of Discovery in the 17th century CE, the Spanish conquistadores arrived at the Paraná region of Brazil. Together with the conquistadores, there were Jesuit missionaries whose mission was to spread the gospel and convert the indigenous locals, where the original areas Paraná region suffered from constant attacks and kidnaps of the Portuguese Bandeirantes for their slave trade. The mission started in the 1630s CE, but did not settle in its current location until late 17th century CE. The Jesuit mission, and later the site, was called San Ignacio Miní to distinguish it from the larger mission, San Ignacio Guazú, meaning great in Guaraní. It must be emphasised that the Jesuit actually explored many areas of South America, but apparently this the San Ignacio mission became one of the most successful.
The mission had a population of around 3,000 people, mostly indigenous peoples. The missionaries established the township in the region and set up administrative, legal and educational systems. More importantly and favourably, it helped them to defend against the Bandeirantes attack and hence the mission was much welcomed by the locals. In one interpretation, this mission became a unique social experiment that unintentionally protect the indigenous populations from exploitation and colonial slave raids.
As a result, these semi-autonomous townships were known as reduction (Spanish: reducciones) that included ranches, plantations, schools and churches, and with the intention to lead a harmonious relationship between the locals and the missionaries. The Jesuits respected the local cultures, and they intentionally try to amalagmate European culture and practices with those of the local Guaraní, in particular architectural style.
The mission produced rich cultural and handicraft products, which the Spanish commercialised by trade and prospered the town until the Jesuits departed in the mid-18th century CE. Luso-Brazilian forces destroyed the mission in 1817 CE. There are several other sites in the region of these missions. The entire history is beautifully narrated by the movie The Mission.
The current ruined site, though much dilapidated becomes the best-preserved remains of the Jesuit-Guaraní missions established during the period. Today, San Ignacio is a major cultural and tourist destination, attracting visitors interested in history, architecture, religion, and indigenous heritage.
Toponymy
The city San Ignacio is named after Ignatius (Ignacio, né Iñigo López de Oñaz y Loyola), the founder of the Jesuit Society of the Society of Jesus (Latin: Societas Iesu).
See
Church and citadel (Iglesia y ciudadela)
Originally the main square was bounded by the main church, a cabildo, a cemetery, a monastery and some houses. The magnificent red-stone Baroque church main facade ruins (as above picture) is 74 m length by 24 m width and was designed by Italian priest Juan Brasanelli, and built using the local red sandstone together with the indigenous, and is now the icon of the landmark. The original facade was actually fairly stereotyped, but the collapsed-ruinous state, which now looks like two blades, actually provides a different rustic feel.
The church ruin site.
The layout of the mission follows a classic Jesuit design, with the central plaza surrounded by key buildings, reflecting both order and community-centric living.
The church emblem. This emblem sees the monogram A and M, referring to Ave María, Virgin Mary (Aramaic: מרים, Maryam). In fact, along the walls there are many intricately carved Jesuit and Guaraní iconography, blending Christian motifs with local symbolism.
The altar with iconographies all around.
Jesuit Museum (Museo Jesuitico)
Right at the entrance of the site, all the artefacts are housed inside a reasonably well managed small museum. Stand museum but uninteresting to non-archaeologists like us.
Buy and Do
Gemstone (Piedra preciosa)
Before arriving at San Ignacio Miní, one would usually 'forced' to pass by the Wanda Mines (Minas de Wanda), where tourists can buy various over-priced crystals and gemstones.
Chamamé
During our park visit, we met a number of people doing a tango-like dance but in a very informal setting. Of course my lack of knowledge pointed me to the wrong direction, they are not doing tango, as documented earlier in Colonia del Sacramento, but another ICH-inscribed dance called the Chamamé. Chamamé is a folk music genre from the nearby Guarani region.
This particular dance has a history related to the reduction, when the Jesuits encouraged cultural growth until they themselves were expelled by Spain in the late 18th century CE. This cultural recreation were infused with Spanish music and instruments, like guitar, accordion or drums, resulting in what is currently known as Chamamé. Hence Chamamé emerged from a fusion of Guaraní rhythms and melodies with Spanish input. Later on,
Central European immigrants also began to influence the music.
Historically, lyrics and poetry were in Guaraní, but today, oral traditions are transmitted in the Jopará dialect or creole, which is a combination of Spanish and Guaraní. The word 'Jopará' itself means 'mix' in Guarani.
The emotive music, songs and dance highlight values such as love for nature, environment, religious devotion and kindness, reflecting the local Guaraní values of life, pointing to the harmony between the human, natural and spiritual realms. Today, it stands as a celebration of mestizo identity - an syncretic embrace of the Guaraní past and multicultural present.
Getting There and Around
The site is around 60 km south from Puerto Iguazú, one either drives there or join a local tour. The entrance ticket to the site is very cheap, at ARS $30 and you can hold the tickets to visit to the other ruins as well, although I was told they were not as iconic. The site is worth a half-day visit.
It is highly unlikely one will come to San Ignacio as the only destination. The town is around 90 minute drive away from Puerto Iguazú, which is just one hour away from Buenos Aires. Hence it is likely these two itineraries be combined as a side-trip from the capital of Argentina.
UNESCO Inscriptions
The ruins of São Miguel das Missões in Brazil, and those of San Ignacio Miní, Santa Ana, Nuestra Señora de Loreto and Santa María la Mayor in Argentina, lie at the heart of a tropical forest. They are the impressive remains of five Jesuit missions, built in the land of the Guaranis during the 17th and 18th centuries. Each is characterized by a specific layout and a different state of conservation.
Chamamé is a form of popular cultural expression that is mainly practised in the Corrientes province. Its key components include a style of ‘close embrace’ dancing where participants hold each other chest to chest and follow the music without set choreography. Other elements include musiqueada, a celebratory act that includes a party, prayer and sapukay, a typical phonation or cry accompanied by gestures and movements to convey emotions such as joy, sadness, pain, and bravery. The violin and vihuela were the original instruments used in Chamamé music, but the guitar, harmonica, two-row diatonic button accordion, bandoneon and double bass were later incorporated. The singing is rooted in worship songs. Historically, lyrics and poetry were in Guarani, the regional native language, but today, oral traditions are transmitted in the yopará dialect, a combination of Spanish and Guarani. Chamamé music and dancing are an important part of the regional identity and play major social roles as they are common features of community and family gatherings, religious celebrations, and other festive events. Chamamé highlights values such as love for one’s land, local fauna and flora, religious devotion and a ‘way of being,’ a Guarani expression pointing to the harmony between the human, natural and spiritual realms.
References
Jesuit Missions of the Guaranis: San Ignacio Mini, Santa Ana, Nuestra Señora de Loreto and Santa Maria Mayor (Argentina), Ruins of Sao Miguel das Missoes (Brazil) | UNESCO World Heritage Centre (📹)
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