Córdoba
- Maximus Nostramabus
- Aug 18, 2019
- 6 min read
Updated: Jun 21
A derelict learnt city - Jesuit Block and Estancias of Córdoba 995; Tango 00258
What and Why
While colonialism carries a negative imperial connotation nowadays, it did bring a major historical impact in establishing the cultural order of a place, and Córdoba is an actual good example of this. With the Spanish conquistadores, the Jesuit order established this city in the late 16th century CE, and set up modern education, legal and social administrative system (or technically experiment) in the city and converted all indigenous people called comechingón. The city is well planned into estate called estancia. The estancia becomes an exceptional example of a vast religious, political, economic, legal, and cultural system. It is a remarkable illustration of the fusion of European and Native American cultures, with the added contributions of African slave labourers, during a seminal period in South America.
The National University of Córdoba (Spanish: Universidad Nacional de Córdoba) is the oldest university of the country and Córdoba will forever carry the beacon of culture and learnedness in Argentina. Hence it is nicknamed 'The Learnt (La Docta)'.
During the establishment of the city, the Jesuit constructed the city using a rectangular block system and started what is known as the Jesuit block (Manzana Jesuítica). Córdoba is also known for its historical political movements, due to its large concentration of liberal students. The Jesuit Block showcases the sophisticated blend of European and indigenous influences that defined Jesuit architecture and pedagogy. This block has hence become the core of Córdoba’s cultural identity and contains most of the important tourist landmarks.
Toponymy
The city is named in honour of city's founder's wife, originally from the blogged Cordova (Córdoba), Spain (España). In turn, Cordova was named by the famous Carthaginian general Hamilcar Barca (Punic: 𐤇𐤌𐤋𐤒𐤓𐤕𐤟𐤁𐤓𐤒, Ḥomilqart Barqa) as Kartuba, from Kart-Juba, meaning the city of Juba, to commemorate a commander who had died in Juba, a city in Carthage (Punic: 𐤒𐤓𐤕𐤟𐤇𐤃𐤔𐤕, Qrt-ḥdšt).
See
National University of Córdoba (Universidad Nacional de Córdoba)
The National University of Córdoba is an institution as it was the first thing the Jesuit built when they arrived in Córdoba in the 17th century CE, and marked the beginning of the history of higher education in Argentina. Clearly it used to be a seminary and later converted itself to a learnt institution. The university was originally created to train priests and scholars in theology, philosophy and Latin. It played a crucial role in the spread of education and scientific knowledge throughout the Spanish colonies. During the 19th and 20th centuries CE, the university became a centre of political reform and student activism, most famously during the University Reform Movement of 1918 CE (Reforma Universitaria de 1918 CE), which advocated for academic freedom, secular education, and student participation in governance. This movement influenced university systems across the entire Latin America.
The university is a joy to visit as it oozes cultural and religious odour, I mean it really smells like a library. The particular highlight would be the chapel and the library.
The very old-fashioned library which smells like rotten newspaper.
The very majestic university chapel.
Cordoba Cathedral (Nuestra Señora de la Asunción)
The oldest Catholic church in Argentina, and built by local indigenous artisans, the Córdoba Cathedral (Nuestra Señora de la Asunción) is largely different from other cathedrals in Europe during the epoch, as it features Baroque façade and the neoclassical portico. The construction started as early as late 16th century CE and was only partially completed in early 18th century CE. This is the landmark of Córdoba.
Plaza San Martín
The central forum of the Cordoba together with the cathedral, the plaza serves as a congregation place for fellow Argentinians, especially doing tango. However what we witnessed was a large number of under-aged mothers with their children and young unemployed. In this sense, you can imagine the economic status of the nation.
José de San Martín y Matorras was the national hero of Argentina and Peru (Perú) and is commemorated in many plazas in South America, as he was the prime leader in South American struggle for independence (Las guerras de independencia hispanoamericanas) from Spain.
Society of Jesus Church (Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús)
The oldest and living church in Argentina, frequently hosting concerts and chorals. The interesting part of this church is the vault of the inner nave which looks like a ship hull, symbolic of the Jesuit mission (reducciones), as blogged in San Ignacio. We attended a Christmas choral during our visit.
Los Capuchinos (Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón)
An extremely colourful cathedral established under the Franciscan order (Latin: Ordo Franciscanus), designed by the Italian architect Augusto Ferrari. The name derives from the Franciscan friars who used to cape themselves during religious ceremonies. Access to the top of the spire can give a panoramic view of the city. Highly recommended to visit.
The World (La Mundial)
The world's narrowest building, or a building with only a facade.
Outside Córdoba and located throughout the province there are other Jesuit estancias like Alta Gracia, Santa Catalina. These rural estates formed a self-sufficient network supporting the Jesuit missions, but we did not manage to visit them.
Travel Suggestions and Logistics
Córdoba is the second largest city in Argentina, and while it is worn down it is well connected with public transport. The Jesuit block can be easily walked around. I believe two or three days for the city is good. Naturally this will be a normal extension from visiting the capital Buenos Aires.
Travelling by air within the vast country of Argentina can be a clumsy matter: Almost all flights go via the Buenos Aires hub and it is not that easy to connect them by dots like other countries.
Córdoba is fairly modern, but it does not present itself as a safe city. During one of our dinners, we witnessed during broad daylight, gangsters walked in and extorted money from the restaurant, just like that, casually and incredibly courteously.
UNESCO Inscriptions
The Jesuit Block in Córdoba, heart of the former Jesuit Province of Paraguay, contains the core buildings of the Jesuit system: the university, the church and residence of the Society of Jesus, and the college. Along with the five estancias, or farming estates, they contain religious and secular buildings, which illustrate the unique religious, social, and economic experiment carried out in the world for a period of over 150 years in the 17th and 18th centuries.
The Argentinian and Uruguayan tradition of the Tango, now familiar around the world, was developed by the urban lower classes in Buenos Aires and Montevideo in the Rio de la Plata basin. Among this mix of European immigrants to the region, descendents of African slaves and the natives of the region known as criollos, a wide range of customs, beliefs and rituals were merged and transformed into a distinctive cultural identity. As one of the most recognizable embodiments of that identity, the music, dance and poetry of tango both embodies and encourages diversity and cultural dialogue. It is practised in the traditional dance halls of Buenos Aires and Montevideo, spreading the spirit of its community across the globe even as it adapts to new environments and changing times. That community today includes musicians, professional and amateur dancers, choreographers, composers, songwriters, teachers of the art and the national living treasures who embody the culture of tango. Tango is also incorporated into celebrations of national heritage in Argentina and Uruguay, reflecting the widespread embrace of this popular urban music.
References
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Please share your thoughts and comments about the blog. If you need suggestions to build a travel itinerary, please let me know. More than willing to help. I would also like to build a bespoke-in-depth travel community around UNESCO WHS and ICH.
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